The Chronicle

Top of the pops – best Christmas champers

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Which supermarke­t fizz is top of the pops? Wine writer JANE CLARE blind-tasted bubbly with a few of Santa’s Little Helpers

choose your christmas champers Asda Extra Special Vintage Champagne 2007 (£24, until December 31)

Simply delicious. It is a different style of champers to the other ones, but it’s here because in terms of value it’s a fab fizz. I wrote “apple pie, brioche, caramelise­d pineapple” and then a very large smiley face which doesn’t translate well in these notes. Drink it slowly (was one tasting elf’s advice) to savour the vanilla, apples, and the amazing finish. Tasting elves say: Oh wow, apple pie. Love this

Champagne Delacourt Brut (£30, Marks & Spencer)

Peachy, I wrote. A touch of toast, I wrote. A nice pop of bubbles, I wrote. I savoured the sips.

But my fellow tasters in this challenge to guide you through your festive maze of fizz weren’t as convinced. It needs a boost, said one, though they enjoyed the burst of bubbles. Two elves discerned red fruits leading the nose from the front, and I did too, with my second nose dip.

Tasting elves say: Pleasant and biscuity

Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut (£11.49, Aldi)

This was the cheapest champagne we blind-tasted, but it packed a punch of loveliness I’d be happy to pay more for. Mmmmm, I thought it was rich, with a nose of butterscot­ch and caramel and a lively fizz. My elves’ thoughts included “apple crumble, fresh and sweet with a lingering aftertaste” – and – “brioche with apple playfulnes­s”.

Tasting elves say:

It’s a fruit explosion

Waitrose Brut Champagne NV (£19.99)

Light, subtle, fruity and refreshing. That’s what I thought anyway. After the big reveal (when all our scores were in) I was surprised to see my home-based consumer panel wasn’t as keen on this champagne, which I discovered later is mainly a pinot noir blend, with only 10 percent chardonnay. Easy to drink, said an elf. It is probably a fizz for an informal festive gathering. Tasting elves say: Shortbread and fruit

Landric Champagne Brut (£25, Sainsbury)

I’d not tried this champagne before and it was pretty moreish. It scored above average with all our elves. We enjoyed this wine’s light but creamy notes which were wrapped in a subtle buttery biscuit coat with a good crunch of apple to top everything off. It is a blend of the three champagne grapes, pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay.

Tasting elves say: Tastes like a day out in the summer

Marquis Belrive Champagne Brut (£17.50, Spar)

Well, this was an interestin­g one! Dip your nose, I told the elves, and say what you smell. It’s a bit like Catchphras­e but with a glass and a sniff. Let’s call it Fizz Phrase. This wine brought diverse observatio­ns of elderflowe­r, Granny Smith apples, socks (sorry about that Spar) and from me, a hint of baked fruit and a peep of caramel. The bubbles were giddy and proud of themselves. Tasting elves say: A tiny hint of red fruit

Comte de Senneval Premier Cru Champagne (£15.99, Lidl)

Toffee caramel was my first thought, closely followed by rich fruit and stewed apples. Another taster picked up melon, citrus and biscuits and yet another described brioche with more of that toffee. It’s a complex champagne, probably best to serve on a special festive event such as Christmas Day or to welcome in the New Year.

Tasting elves say: Like a sherbert dib dab

Morrisons The Best Champagne Brut (£15 from December 13 until December 16, reduced from £19)

This champagne is a one-time winner of my festive fizz consumer taste test, but not so in 2018. My elfish consumers sensed a bitter aftertaste which knocked the fizz down a few marks. Otherwise, there was praise for the aroma – “very perfumed” – and the bubbles – “light and flirty”. Me? I was content with its notes of brioche, citrus and gentle, gentle bubbles. Tasting elves say: Marshmallo­w clouds

Tesco Finest Premier Cru Champagne (£17, down from £19 until January 1)

Yowzah, I thought, when I sensed the aromas of vanilla, caramel and crunchy apple

– and yowzah again when I had a little sip. It has richness and an elegance. It has depth and a refined bubble.

One tasting elf, a keen chef among us, said it reminded her of the aromas when cooking fudge.

Tasting elves say: Brimming with brioche

Les Pionniers NV Champagne (£18.99, but £17.99 from December 12 until January 29, Co-op)

This has won plenty of awards, but it didn’t float the boat of our blind tasters.

I have to stick with the scores on the doors because that’s what this taste test is all about. Red and green apples, with a pithy dryness, and a good fizz, were my thoughts. But one elf said she just didn’t like the finish in the mouth and another said the aromas were just too subtle.

Tasting elves say: Touch of aniseed

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