The Church of England

WINE OFTHEWEEK

- Graham Gendall Norton

Viña Albali Tempranill­o Gran Reserva 2008 Asda £7.98 (£5 offer, until 1st October)

An unusual red this, and at this offer price especially, well worth a try. Give it plenty of time to open up. It comes from Valdepeñas in southern central Spain, which means the Valley of the Rocks — a topographi­cal feature, then, for very hot summers. Tempranill­o is the great grape for Rioja: here it appears bolder, but yet softened (2008 was a good year) by around 18 months in cask and since then seven years in bottle.

In the glass, fine ruby red; on the nose, there was warm depth, and something too of attractive muskiness. The palate revealed the expected oak, balanced by vanilla and sweeter black cherry flavours. The finish came up assertivel­y with a mix of the latter and tannic notes. Alcohol by Vol.13%.

This is a wine not for drinking by itself, but one that demands an appropriat­e food match. It could I thought pair up with a spicy beef casserole, followed by a mature hard cheese.

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