Tsan­tali Or­ganic Caber­net Sauvi­gnon 2015 Waitrose £9.49 (of­fer, £6.99 un­til 6th April)

The Church of England - - REVIEWS - Gra­ham Gen­dall Nor­ton

First, be warned! The most dif­fi­cult cork to pull I re­mem­ber en­coun­ter­ing. Bit by bit it frag­mented, the pieces scat­ter­ing. How­ever, the wine was it­self un­scathed, not a hint of cork con­tam­i­na­tion. Or­gan­i­cally pro­duced, it orig­i­nates from Halkidiki, the three-pronged penin­sula that pushes out into the Aegean Sea from north­ern Greece. A vi­brant dark red in the glass, on the nose it was rich and flo­ral, with some­thing of the aroma of crushed black­ber­ries. On the palate it was im­me­di­ately en­joy­ably smooth, with notes of warm spice, the black­ber­ries again, ripe and suc­cu­lent, per­fectly matched with slightly dryer fruit, cher­ries and black­cur­rant, flavours that ran to­gether in a glow­ing fin­ish. Al­co­hol by Vol. 14%: to be ex­pected from the warm sum­mers of this ter­roir. Good by it­self, or with beef.

Or­gan­i­cally pro­duced, the grapes were picked last year as the mi­grants came in, though mostly to other parts of the Greek main­land. A glass to pon­der over.

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