Back down toearth in the garden

John gets his hands dirty and discusses some soil improvements

As gardeners we do our best to grow top quality plants, whether it is trees, shrubs, roses, herbaceous borders, rock gardens, a beautiful lawn, flowers, fruit or vegetables. Every plant has its own requirements for cultural needs, location, shelter and soil.

If you want the perfect lawn, the soil must have excellent drainage, as this benefits the growth of the fine grasses and discourages diseases and moss.

The best golf courses are often found on sandy, coastal links ground.

Roses prefer a deep fertile clay soil and rock garden plants need well drained stony soils. Fruit and vegetables grow best on well drained fertile soil, although root crops fare best when the land is well manured for a crop the previous year, otherwise the roots will tend to split.

Allotment gardens are usually a mixture of fruit, vegetables, some flowers to brighten up the plot, a compost heap, a wee shed for tools, storage and shelter, and a greenhouse for the tomatoes, a grapevine for bringing on the young plants from seed.

We all have a competitive spirit, so crop size, weight or flower power is very important if we are to keep up with other plot holders.

This is where soil fertility comes in as each crop has its own needs.

We resolve this issue with crop rotation and manure and use green manures according to crop requirements.

Some people use a three-year rotation with potatoes and roots followed by brassicas and these to be followed

thecouriermagazine by the heavy feeders of onions, leeks, peas, beans, sweet corn, courgettes and pumpkins.

Rotation is important to keep ahead of diseases, but with so many new crops to try out, a four-year rotation may be a better choice.

I also incorporate my strawberries into the rotation as these get dug out every three years with new runners planted on new soil.

Once you get the rotation organised you will know in advance what crops will receive the most compost (the heavy feeders) those that get a lesser amount (potatoes and brassicas) and those that don’t get any (the root crops.)

You need this information in late autumn as you start the winter digging incorporating compost as planned.

Retain some compost to add to potato furrows as well as extra at planting time for courgettes and pumpkins.

I plan to complete digging by Christmas, however, sometimes weather has a say in matters and some areas may have a winter mix of green manures which can be left till the end of winter. Always leave the soil surface as rough as possible as this will expose a large area for weathering by winter frosts.

If you want the perfect lawn, the soil must have excellent drainage, as this benefits the growth of the fine grasses and discourages diseases and moss

Clockwise from main picture: compost heap needs turning; liming the brassica patch; Kyle and Scarlet double digging; Ryegrass green manure; Tares green manure.