Little-known gem hidden in Alpine Eastern Europe

Robin and his wife head back to Slovenia. It is a small country the size of Wales, but offers far more than you could ever imagine

S lovenia has come a long way since 1991 and its brief war of independence. Today it’s now an increasingly popular tourist destination that crams an impressive amount into a country the size of Wales. I’ve watched this journey first-hand and would like to share this glorious destination with you.

It’s been quite a journey from a rump of the old Yugoslavia into a successful European Union member renowned for its clean, green living. My wife and I wrote one of the first English-language guidebooks to Slovenia in 2004 and we were back in the country last month with an eye on possibly doing a new edition. It’s the sort of place it is hard not to keep going back to.

Slovenia crams in an incredible amount of diversity, not surprising given its enviable location. It is surrounded by Italy, Croatia, Hungary and Austria, with its culture, architecture and food heavily influenced by its eclectic neighbours. There is also a strong sense of small-country pride. Yes, a dish may be influenced by Italy, but it will still be proudly Slovenian too with little local tweaks.

We kicked off in the capital of Ljubljana, for me one of the most underrated wee cities in Europe. It’s a sort of greatest hits of European architecture. Its cobbled old town is awash with baroque and medieval style, while the opposite bank of the river sports art nouveau and Italianate churches, not to mention the sort of brutalist socialist-era architecture that has improbably now become en vogue.

One of the most impressive aspects of Ljubljana’s rebirth has been that it has put people first under go-getting mayor Zoran Jankovic. He has bashed past the concerns of vested interest groups and pedestrianised much of the city centre. He has built new bridges too and spruced up walkways, bringing the willow tree-kissed banks of the Ljubljanica River alive with strolling citizens, plus a rich bounty of cafes, bars and restaurants.

We were staying this time at the Vander Urbani Resort. This boutique bolthole at the heart of the old town is an ideal base as everything is within walking distance. It’s a design-conscious hotel with stylish furniture in all the rooms, but the highlight is the rooftop terrace, which boasts a small infinity pool with great views of this chocolatebox pretty city.

The Vander Urbani has a restaurant worth staying in for too, which offers a great introduction to Slovenia’s rich culinary larder. We feasted on airdried ham and cheese, before plump prawns from the Adriatic coast and