Finding shelter from the storm

In the past few months, Black Sheep Hotels has opened three renovated establishments in the Scottish Highlands. Stephen Eighteen visits them to find out more

S pending two nights visiting three hotels in the remote Scottish Highlands in the heart of winter is a risky choice and, inevitably, the rain was driving and wind howling from the beginning of the break until the end.

But by welcoming visitors in the deep Scottish winter it does mean that a hotel cannot trade solely on its location – even if that is some of Scotland’s finest scenery. Owned by the Mumbai-based Mars Group, the Black Sheep Hotels were indeed warm and welcoming on the recent wet weekend we visited three of them. Here is what we found.

WHISPERING PINE LODGE

After a long journey from the eastern edge of Perthshire, it was gloomy by the time we arrived but the homely, quaint surroundings, with plenty of exposed wood, made for a welcoming arrival.

Even more welcoming was our room, with a view overlooking Loch Lochy that was magnificent despite the rain. Several of the rooms, including ours, have balconies and on a nice day one could imagine spending hours gazing out at one of Mother Nature’s incalculably glorious creations.

So private is the setting one could permanently leave the curtains open, safe in the knowledge that, save from the unlikely event of a boat coming near, no one would be able to peek through.

The retreat, originally built in the 1800s when the clan of Macmartins of Letterfinlay owned the land, is located on the A82, north of Spean Bridge by eight miles and Fort William by 16. It is set against a backdrop of steep, forested mountains on the banks of Loch Lochy and guests can stroll down the garden pathways to a private pebbled beach. It became a hotel in the mid 1900s – Letterfinlay Lodge – closing for refurbishment in 2018 and reopening a year later with the room count increased from 13 to 25.

There is, of course, a strong Scottish flavour. The two suites are named after Mary, Queen of Scots and Robert Burns, and the corridors pay homage to

Scottish history with references to the Royal Scots Regiment.

There are features common to all the hotels, while each very much retains its own identity. A good example is in the restaurants. Whispering Pine Lodge is the only hotel with a private outdoor balcony and it is not alone in supplementing core meal choices such as caesar salad (starter), butter chicken (main) and Scottish bread pudding (dessert) with its own dishes, such as delicious, hearty Cullen skink.

The starter portions were so generous they threatened to overshadow our mains – grilled Scottish teriyaki salmon and traditional Scottish stovies. Similar could be said of the desserts, though the Scottish bread pudding, one of Black Sheep Hotels’ signature dishes, was a genuine delight, as was the rosemary rhubarb and apple crumble.

The breakfast menu at all three hotels is more or less the same, including the traditional hot selection of eggs, bacon, sausage and hash browns.

Whispering Pine Lodge is the only hotel in the chain to have a spa, operated by external company Sleeping Beauty. There is ample choice and we left suitably invigorated for the short drive to the next hotel. The service was not perfect; we had to ask for a wifi password, the non-functioning internet on our smart TV baffled the staff, and the bedroom door was a nightmare to lock. But its dream location, generous menu and restorative spa make it ideal for a romantic getaway.

THE CLUANIE INN

Dating back to 1787, when it was an isolated staging post, this venue has been serving the traveller for more than 100 years. The most remote of Black Sheep’s three hotels, it is located on the A87, just 27 miles from the Kyle of Lochalsh and the bridge to Isle of Skye. Few modern hotels can offer a vista to match that from this 18-room property overlooking the magnificent South Glen Shiel Ridge, popular with hikers who can tick off seven Munros in a single walk.

The atmosphere is warm, with crackling log fires in the lobby making us feel at home as the rain continued to pound down. This feeling

was enhanced as we were taken to our room in one of the Highland Suites; spacious with large windows, wooden floors, vintage furniture, mountain views and a four-poster bed. The crown jewel was a jacuzzi-style bath, easily big enough for two, complete with headrests. Very luxurious.

The restaurant includes an outside dining area with fantastic views where, naturally, hotel residents get first dibs. For starters, we had crunchy lentil bites and a trio of mussels, calamari and langoustines; both dishes were ideal for fans of spice but, at £9, one would have expected more fish in the seafood dish. Our other main, sirloin steak, was a real treat, suitably succulent and generously-sized. Pizzas are a variation to the menu and the Snowy Mountain caught my eye, mainly because it was a pizza without any tomato. Instead, it had a cheese sauce complemented by artichokes, ricotta and zucchini ribbons. It was tasty but the artichokes seemed out of place.

The Cluanie Inn is the best for hiking and scenery. If you want a luxurious getaway, this is your place.

ROKEBY MANOR

Rokeby Manor is the best connected of the three hotels, located on the edge of Invergarry and close to a post office, primary school and community hall.

The house was built in 1840 and retains the character of a country home with original wooden beams and cosy touches. There are 13 bedrooms, mainly made up in a classic style with floral wallpaper, and all bar one having its own original fireplace.

A Scottish rose on each bedroom entrance door is a sweet touch and it is more of a pretty than elaborate place.

We didn’t stay overnight at Rokeby, making a pit-stop for food on the way home, and there is plenty that can be said for the dining experience here.

The rustic farmhouse restaurant, Emily’s Byre, has a cosy bar and is a lovely place to relax.

The food, also, is noteworthy for offering authentic Indian dishes with an emphasis on “Northern Frontier” specialities. The Indian-style soup, tomato and coriander shorba, was one of the best dishes of the trip, its subtle spices and moderate thickness getting all the delicate balances just right. The other starter, chicken tikka pieces, melted beautifully in the mouth.

For the main, the lamb shank was wonderfully marinated with Indian spices to further enhance a supremely-cooked piece of meat. Another star was the freshly-made cheesy garlic bread. This was food from another planet.

For dessert, unfortunately I ducked out of having kulfi, a traditional Indian dish, in favour of the now tried-and-tested bread and butter pudding – a must-have for anyone visiting any of the Black Sheep Hotels.

If Whispering Pine Lodge is for the romance and Cluanie Inn is for the hiking and luxury, Rokeby Manor is certainly for the food, delivering a succulent taste of India in glorious Scottish surroundings.

Stephen Eighteen was a guest of Black Sheep Hotels. Prices, per night, in the low season, start from: Cluanie Inn – £75 single, £149 double; Rokeby Manor – £109; Whispering Pine Lodge – £149. In high season: Cluanie Inn – £240 per night single, £280 double; Rokeby Manor – £240 per night; Whispering Pine Lodge – £240 per night. Visit blacksheephotels.com for more information.

Clockwise from main picture: Artwork at Whispering Pine Lodge; the view from a bedroom at Whispering Pine Lodge; Cluanie Inn; a roaring fire at Cluanie Inn; Whispering Pine Lodge; the Rokeby Manor restaurant.