The Courier & Advertiser (Angus and Dundee)
Reaching the trig point at Ben Earb, Glenshee.
BEN EARB, GLENSHEE, PERTHSHIRE
Those who pay close attention to mountain lists will be familiar with shapely Ben Earb and its higher neighbour Meall a’ Choire Bhuidhe, the nearly hill.
Sitting at 868 metres, Meall a’ Choire Bhuidhe easily reaches Corbett height but because of the strict rules pertaining to re-ascent for this class of hill, it does not qualify as separate and instead remains a subsidiary of the Munro Glas Tulaichean, some six kilometres distant.
Tulaichean’s influence is far-reaching. The ridge running north-west from Ben Earb contains eight substantial summits and a sweep of them all from Enochdu to the south would entail an epic walk of nearly 36km through some tough and lonely terrain.
It’s not a task to be contemplated for this time of year, and I was happy enough to tackle the main two tops with the bonus of a return down the old railway line in Glen Lochsie.
There are a few places to park near the burned-out shell of the hotel at Spittal of Glenshee. There is also a grassy parking area a few hundred metres further west on the road to the Dalmunzie Hotel.
The day was grey and cold but dry, and although the higher peaks were wearing cloud caps, I was hopeful these would blow away during the walk. As usual, I was being too optimistic.
The Cateran Trail provided a gentle introduction, the frozen ground making for swift progress on a grass path by a wall, crossing a stile further up, to reach the high point, An Lairig. Here I left the trail and turned north-west to follow a twisting line. There is a path along the ridge most of the time, but there are also old fence posts and a broken wall, and eventually a newer and consistent fence to follow.
Ben Earb looked impressive as always framed through gaps in the undulating ridge, and a turn left at the col and a short, steady pull led me to the trig point cairn. The cloud had hardly moved, however, and the summit view was left entirely to the imagination.
It continued that way for the next couple of kilometres, but it’s hard to go wrong with the fence providing an excellent handrail, and it soon brought me to the frosted rocks which form the cairn of Meall a’ Choire Bhuidhe. It also led down to the crunchy lakes of black bog which decorate the next col, where I left the ridge and turned north down open but relatively simple slopes by a stream to reach the Glen Lochsie Burn.
I had been anticipating possible problems with the crossing, but I did it in two sections and there were enough stepping stones both times to ensure dry feet.
The old hunting lodge at the head of the glen seems to deteriorate further with every visit and it is in a dangerous state. There’s an estate track running down the glen, but this means another two stream crossings. Instead, I went uphill beside a stream to find the now grassy line of the old railway which runs along the lower slopes of Creag Bhreac.
This narrow gauge private railway was opened in 1920 by industrialist Sir Archibald Birkmyre and was originally used to carry quarried stone for building works at Dalmunzie House. Eventually, it became mainly used for carrying shooting parties up the hill and to the lodge.
There are remnants of old sleepers and metalwork, but the track is mainly grassed over. When you reach the end of the line, drop to pick up the estate track which continues to Glenlochsie Farm.
There is a signed route through the farm which leads round to the tarred road past the hotel, then it’s just a case of best foot forward for the next couple of kilometres.
The grey may not have lifted, but it’s always good to have a mountain day with a railway journey at the end.
ROUTE
1 Go through gate taking the Cateran Trail, signed for Enochdu and Strathardle, which rises steadily on grass south-west from parking for 2km to gate and fence at its high point (An Lairig).
2 Turn right (north-west) to climb over top of Creag an Dubh Shluic and at next col, follow path and fence posts west for short ascent to Ben Earb’s trig point.
3 Head north-west again along the ridge by the fence for 2km, dropping and then climbing over a subsidiary top to the summit of Meall a’ Choire Bhuidhe (cairn).
4 Stay with fence to next col, then turn north down pathless slopes to reach the Glen Lochsie Burn and cross to ruined lodge.
5 Ignore the estate track heading down the glen and instead make the short rise to the grassy track of the old railway line and follow it to its end and then pick up the estate track.
6 Pass through Glenlochsie Farm (signed) then follow the road past Dalmunzie Hotel and back to the Spittal.
Alan Rowan is a well-known author and walker. You can follow his regular mountain adventures at munromoonwalker.com
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