Sotogrande offers breathtaking views and new adventures

Robin heads to an idyllic corner of Andalusia and experiences its famous golf courses, incredible seafood and fantastic independent bars

2019-06-29 - by Robin McKelvie

Once Sotogrande was a playground that was the sole preserve of the rich, the famous and Spanish Royalty. Today this idyllic corner of Andalusia has opened its doors to all and is now a superb holiday destination.

Sotogrande’s story goes back to 1962 when American colonel and financier Joseph McMicking was looking for a virginal stretch of land to build an exclusive holiday hideaway. His original plot was of 1,317 acres, but Sotogrande has mushroomed over the years and now sports myriad housing, schools, hotels, restaurants and a massive marina development. It all lies under sultry southern Spanish skies with long days of sunshine Scotland can only dream of.

Then there are the golf courses, the star attractions that really put Sotogrande on the map. Sotogrande Golf Course, a Robert Trent Jones crafted gem, was opened in 1963. The second course was opened in 1975, again the work of mercurial American golf course designer Jones. You may know the latter by its current name of Valderrama. This impressive course has hosted a sweep of tournaments, including most famously the Ryder Cup in 1997, where Seve Ballesteros led Europe to a thrilling victory.

It is easy to see what brought McMicking and the golf course designers to this remarkable corner of Europe. Tucked between the Costa del Sol and Gibraltar, a sweep of beaches give way to thick cork and pine forests, which sweep up the valley in search of a hulk of rugged mountains. In the distance the Rock of Gibraltar struts forth. Haunting the background is the northern tip of Africa.

My base in Sotogrande was the Almenara (www.hotelalmenara.com), a plush four-star hotel that sports its own brace of golf courses. The hotel is already a manicured oasis, but it is about to get even better with a major makeover to bring it up to the same level as the rest of the massive La Reserva Club Sotogrande development. One unique attraction was the “golf ball massage” in their Elysium Spa.

It does indeed involve being massaged by golf balls, which is a bit like hot stone therapy with tiny pebbles.

La Reserva Club lies a few kilometres inland and is unlike anywhere else I’ve been to in Europe. It is basically a luxurious country club and leisure oasis that is part California, part Caribbean, but still very Spanish too.

The highlight for me was the brand new The Beach attraction. I say beach, but is set well back from the sea and it is totally man-made. I wasn’t sure what I would make of this inland beach, but

was soon convinced. You have to book and then when you arrive you get your own Bali Bed by the fringe of the lagoon.

You can just laze away the day by the water’s edge, but I wanted to be more active and that is where their watersports centre came in. You can enjoy a wide range of activities here – I opted to take out a kayak to explore this surreal leisure oasis. Afterwards I enjoyed a massage poolside, before a superb lunch in their restaurant.

Sotogrande, mercifully, is not just about golf and lazing away the day. The next day I rented a Mini Moke from the Jolly Mile (www.thejollymile.com). A sort of 1980s cross between a Jeep and a Mini, these fun little vehicles are ideal for exploring Sotogrande and its environs. Jolly Mile offer also sorts of packages.

I just wanted to head off exploring for myself, so I set off into the hills in search of Castellar de la Frontera, a rugged fortified village that Jolly Mile’s owner had recommended.

Soon I was clear of the resort and all its trappings and on quiet country roads snaking up through the forests. It didn’t take too long to make it to the castle and I wasn’t disappointed.

This sturdy fortress dates from the days, centuries ago, when the Moors battled Christian forces for control of this strategic spot. Today you can amble around the old stone streets delving through the layers of history. It also houses a little bar that stages flamenco in the evenings.

From the castle the views were breathtaking out towards Gibraltar and Africa on one flank and the mountainous Andalusian interior on the other. I pushed on, gunning my Mini Moke back down towards Sotogrande’s massive marina, which boasts over 1,000 berths. A water taxi trip is a good way to get a feel for it or you can rent your own boat to cruise around in if, like me, you could never afford a hulking yacht.

I stayed on dry land with an aperitivo at KE. This is the buzzing social hub of Sotogrande where people pop in to say hi to friends, but visitors are also more than welcome.

Here I savoured some tapas, before moving on to Bokana, where local seafood was the star. My grilled octopus was boat fresh and washed down with a crisp white wine from the same province as Sotogrande, Cadiz.

The locals in Sotogrande take their food and drink seriously and I didn’t have a bad meal during my four days here.

The highlights were the perfectly cooked sea bream at the hotel restaurant at the Almenara and a perfectly pink T-bone steak at Cancha II. The steak went brilliantly with a red wine from the Ribera del Duero, a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Spring, when I visited, is also blue fin tuna season when the fish migrate back from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean. It tastes great simply seared and even better tartare style, and was on sale in many of the local restaurants.

I picked up my Mini Moke on another day and explored further, discovering just how much there is to Sotogrande. I came across a polo club – Sotogrande is a major hub for polo with an annual tournament that attracts players from all over the world. Then there were tennis courts, a modest zoo and a slew of great beaches.

I ended my trip on one of the impressive strips of sand you find dotted all around Sotogrande, at Gigi’s Beach, a welcoming beach bar where a lot of the locals come to relax.

I chatted to one of the hotel workers, Claire, who neatly summed up Sotogrande’s appeal: “It’s no longer just for yacht owners and kings, these days everyone is welcome. I love bringing my family and friends down here. They all love it, from my little niece through to my nan.”

Heading reluctantly back to Malaga Airport I left glad that Joseph McMicking chose this spectacular spot for his pipedream. I am also glad Sotogrande is now open to mere mortals like me, and I’m already resolving to come back with my young family to enjoy its delights.