The Courier & Advertiser (Perth and Perthshire Edition)
Testing the waters on new Hebridean cruises
Jumping at the chance to explore one of his favourite parts of the world Robin sets sail on a new voyage
As a travel writer I’ve been lucky enough to embark on cruise ships around the world and hand on (maritime) heart I reckon the Hebrides offer the finest routes anywhere on the planet. This year brings two superb new options for exploring this epic archipelago, both of which I am more than happy to try out.
The first one offers the chance to journey under sail the old fashioned way, while the other promises an experience of motoring around in luxury with an outdoor hot tub. Both seem brilliant ways to explore this wildscape of rugged mountains, shimmering white sand beaches and craggy coastlines.
First up is the St Hilda (www. sthildaseaadventures.co.uk), a graceful old dame which was built in St Monans in Fife in 1973 as a sail training ship.
She has been taking passengers for a few years but this is the first time this graceful 54ft-long wooden ketch has been based in Tobermory. Its new base on Mull opens up more of the Hebrides than was previously accessible as visitors no longer lose a day either side heading out of and back to Oban.
The St Hilda has bags of character and it’s a glorious feeling sailing through the isles under canvas. Sitting on deck is a great place to scan the waters for porpoises, dolphins and even whales.
Much of the actual sailing is, of course, weather dependent, but the captain Simon is keen to let guests help out when the conditions are right.
With room for only two crew members and six passengers, it proves to be very much a hands-on experience.
During my time aboard I help with the sails and also getting the dingy tender in and out of the water.
Gliding along as we approach Scarba is divine and totally different to puttering along with a loud motor running. The only sounds I can hear are the wind billowing through the sails, the gentle rush of the ocean and the distant squawk of a gull. It takes me back to the days when I rode on my late dad’s yacht, Sisu.
The guest accommodation on the St Hilda is pretty basic, though there are plans next year to split the main sleeping space (which holds four) into two cabins. There is also the option of a private double room, which works best for couples.
Life onboard is very much a communal affair.The other guests and I bond quickly, helping the boson Lou (Simon’s girlfriend) put up the table for meals and pass used dishes back down to the galley. Lou’s cooking is hearty and wholesome, which is ideal after our outings ashore.
As there’s no guide, it’s up to us to find our own way when we come ashore, often sticking together and sharing our experiences and knowledge.
Our “cruise” takes us south from Mull to the wee island of Luing. I disembark and enjoy a lovely 12km hike along the green spine of the island before retreating back to the boat to devour a spectacular sunset.
Over the next few days we cruise down to Jura and in search of the whisky isle of Islay. I love spending time on Jura but this rugged and remote isle is hard to reach so having the boat is a real boon.
My next boating trip is on the Proud Seahorse, the newest vessel from Hebrides Cruises (www.hebridescruises. co.uk) and a world away from the St Hilda in terms of luxury.
I’ve been on a total of 15 cruises in the Scottish isles and the Proud Seahorse is up there with the Hebridean Princess (a favourite of the British Royal Family) in
terms of comfort. She is much smaller, however, taking a maximum of just 10 passengers. All rooms are en suite with showers, with the best room being the cabin suite, which boasts a separate living area and plenty of space.
I love that the Proud Seahorse offers so many different spaces to enjoy. There is a large lounge area bedecked with books and lots of outdoor options, including a high top deck that offers the perfect vantage point for some epic sunsets over the peaks of Skye.
Then there is that hot tub aft. It is a treat to be welcomed back on board in the evening after a walk to a glass of bubbly and the hot tub ready to go.
My favourite place to sit, though, is on the bridge in one of the comfy leather chairs next to captain James Fairbairn.
He is the ideal man to negotiate the tricky waters of the Hebrides as he was a leading light and captain with Mull Sealife Surveys, who pioneered marine mammal viewing this area, for a long time.
On our cruise James steers us towards numerous porpoises and a large pod of common dolphins. He is a real authority not just on these testing waters and various great anchorages but also on all manner of wildlife.
The Proud Seahorse has three more crew on our trip – ultra efficient boson Maddy Anderson, informative wildlife expert and walking guide Nigel Spencer and young chef Ross Harris.
Ross is a real talent, who was named Scottish sous chef of the year in 2016 for his work at the excellent Taynuilt Etive, and it is a real treat to be able to enjoy his culinary creations.
Our cruise focus this time is on Skye and the Small Isles. James manages to skilfully navigate us into three of the four Small Isles – Rum, Eigg and Canna – as well as Skye, the largest of the Inner Hebrides. The rugged hulk of the Skye Cuillin provides a spectacular backdrop for much of our trip, during which we enjoy some excellent weather.
My favourite day is on Eigg. Under brilliant blue skies four of us hike up the striking volcanic plug of An Sgurr to enjoy jaw-dropping views of the Hebridean isles. One of my fellow passengers, Ken, is from the south of England. He is in his 70s and is torn between marvelling at the beauty of the Hebrides and kicking himself that he has not come on a voyage around the isles sooner.
If you’re thinking of cruising the Scottish islands – something I heartily recommend – this season boasts a couple of great new options. The St Hilda and Proud Seahorse may be very different ships, offering contrasting onboard experiences but they are both supremely enjoyable ways of exploring what is for me the most dramatic and rewarding destinations in the world.