The Critic

Gentleman of Médoc

- CHRISTOPHE­R PINCHER ON DRINK

O Lord Palmerston quipped that dining is the soul of diplomacy. What then is lunching? Its conscience? Admittedly in the modern world, a world of jogging and gyms, of water and salads, where the scales are watched as closely as the clock — and the time is weighed very closely, lunching has become something of a lost art, like courtly dancing or sonnet writing. We are certainly conscienti­ous about what we eat — and how long we spend eating it. But should we not have more of a care about the pleasure we get out of it? I think so. And VR GRHV P\ ROG IULHQG 'DYLG 5XIŴH\ 5XIIHUV LV DQ H[SHUW More than that, he is an artist.

For when it comes to lunching, he knows the right spot; he gathers the right guests; he conducts, lightly, the right conversati­on; he guides, gently, the right menu choices (he really should run a restaurant) and he suggests, meaningful­ly, the wine selection. Whether it be Brooks’s Club or Boisdale, Wiltons or the Wolseley, David 5XIŴH\ LV WKH lunchmeist­er.

And when lunch is over, most importantl­y, he has planned where to go on. For Ruffers, like the old school whip he is, knows where the bottles are buried. His IDYRXULWH ERWWOH EDQN LV +HUWIRUG 6WUHHW ŴDJVKLS RI WKH %LUOH\ ŴHHW DQG OLIHERDW WR /RQGRQōV PRVW VHOHFW ERXOHYDUGL­HUV 5LFKO\ GHFRUDWHG E\ 5LIDW 2]EHN RYHU ƓYH

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