KIMONO JACKET

Looking for a winter cover-up with a difference? It’s time to consider the kimono, says Emily Cronin

Welcome to winter – the season of gunmetal grey skies, too-short days fading into too-dark nights, and a dire shortage of festivities to redeem the above. The season, in other words, when anyone could be forgiven for not wanting to get up or get dressed at all.

Whether by resolution or necessity, the garments people buy in January tend to be cosy, comfort-bringing pieces – things you’d wear to stay in and work through box sets. I’m thinking of knitwear. Socks. Maybe a new pair of pyjamas (not that these are strictly for at-home use anymore, pyjamas having undergone a reinvention as partywear of late).

For the times you simply have to venture out, allow me to propose the kimono jacket.

Bear with me. I use the word “kimono” loosely, referring to pieces that take inspiration from, without strictly replicating, the traditional Japanese garment dating to the 16th century. The fashion kimono usually has wide sleeves, a T-shaped cut, large front pockets and a wide sash belt to cinch in the waist. A subset of pyjama dressing, this style has the ease and languor of a pyjama top, but with a smarter, sharper finish that’s loose enough to wear over knitwear.

Fashion has adored the kimono since the late 19th century, when designers first encountered them at various international expositions. By the 1890s and early 1900s, many designers regularly used Japanese motifs in kimono-inspired silk robes and dresses. Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet and Mariano Fortuny all celebrated the garment’s liberated design in their kimono coats. In 1994, John Galliano nodded to these pioneers with his legendary Japonisme collection, which incorporated micro-kimono dresses tied with lavender rose-embellished obi belts.

But what really brought the kimono back into the cultural conversation last year was news that Kim Kardashian’s new shapewear line would be called Kimono. Critics accused her of cultural appropriation, and Kardashian changed the name.

For me, the controversy had another result closer to home: I was reminded of a favourite vintage kimono languishing at the back of a cupboard. Sure enough, the satiny jacket was just the thing to add a dressy note to jeans and a vest. Or try a mid-thigh-length kimono over a silk slip dress. It’ll look just as good worn over a swimsuit this summer. Until then, it’s a more elegant way to wrap up, at home or farther afield.

DARIA KIMONO COAT £55, Weekday (weekday.com) TROPICAL KIMONO £40, Mango (shop.mango.com) GOWN WITH THE KIDS Kimonos can look just as effective when worn over swimsuits, like model Liya Kebede, main, or to dress up jeans and a vest V&A BAMBOO PRINT JACKET £129, People Tree (peopletree.co.uk) STINE GOYA REVERSIBLE FLORAL KIMONO £284, Net-a-porter.com (net-a-porter.com)