ICE CREAM MAK­ING

The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - - FOOD DRINK -

The rain­bow of ice creams on dis­play at Ruby Vi­o­let’s Tufnell Park par­lour make choos­ing a scoop near im­pos­si­ble: I dither be­tween al­mond, fig and honey and black co­conut and white choco­late be­fore pick­ing salted caramel and al­mond brit­tle.

There are al­ways 18 on of­fer (of hun­dreds cre­ated since the shop opened in 2012), which change with the sea­sons. All are churned with egg yolks, Duchy Orig­i­nal or­ganic milk, dou­ble cream and su­gar into tra­di­tional English ice cream. This is thicker, creamier and denser than the ge­lato you’ll find be­ing sold in a lot of par­lours.

I learn this in a two-hour les­son that be­gins with a glass of chilled red and a chat with founder Julie Fisher [pic­tured, right, with pur­ple head­scarf, in­struct­ing Olivia] and other ice-cream fiends in­clud­ing lo­cals Scar­lett Con­nolly, 10 [pic­tured above right, with pink pais­ley head­scarf ], and her mother Lilly (a rum and raisin ad­dict). The par­lour – “It’s more than a shop – it’s a com­mu­nity as­set,” says Fisher – is named af­ter her grand­mother, whose por­trait hangs on the wall. Next door, there’s a space for chil­dren’s par­ties.

Wine sipped, we move into the back of the shop, a small space where all the ice cream for Ruby Vi­o­let’s two shops (the other is in Gra­nary Square, King’s Cross) and van, named Billy, is made. It’s a glimpse into a Willy Wonka-like process: to my left a basin bub­bles with black­berry jam, ready to be rip­pled into milk ice cream. To the right, the pas­teuriser hums and the churn ro­tates slowly. We are taken through the process

Two-hour ice cream mas­ter­class, £85; rubyvi­o­let.co.uk; 118 Fortress Road, Lon­don, NW5 2HL

TWO MORE TO TRY SCHOOL OF AR­TI­SAN FOOD, NOT­TING­HAMSHIRE

Make nine dif­fer­ent types of vanilla ice cream in one day, £130; schoolo­far­ti­san­food.org

SCIENCE CREAM, CARDIFF

Make your ice cream then freeze it in ni­tro­gen to take home. £110 for a pri­vate mas­ter­class; £40pp for groups of six, both around two hours; sci­ence­cream.co.uk

Olivia Walm­s­ley

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