HOW TO COOK A CHRISTMAS HAM

COOKING METHODS

You can bake the ham outright in the oven (170C/150C fan/Gas 3 for 22 minutes per 500g), but simmering it in a broth first (as I recommend in the recipes here and on the previous page) lends extra flavour and results in a hammy liquid that is great for soups and stews. Weigh the ham before you start.

To simmer: put all the ingredients for the broth (see the recipes for details) in a large pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for five minutes then add the ham.

Bring back to the boil and simmer very gently for 22 minutes per 500g.

Lift out carefully (rubber gloves are helpful) and serve hot, or leave to cool in the broth and continue by glazing and baking.

THE BROTH

Water will do fine for simmering the ham, but adding extra flavourings gives oomph to your meat and broth. The exact quantity of liquid – which should cover the ham generously – depends on the size and shape of the ham and pot. Choose one that fits your ham the most snugly. Depth is often an issue so improvise – if you have an asparagus steamer getting dusty in the back of the cupboard (I know, most of us don’t), it’s ideal for small boneless joints. If you need more liquid to cover the ham, either double the quantities or add water to make it up. Or tent tin foil over the ham, sealing it around the edge of the pan, and turn the ham half way through

the cooking.

SCORING THE FAT

Once the ham is just cool enough to handle, peel off the skin, leaving a layer of fat on the meat. Score this in a criss-cross with a sharp knife, to help the glaze stick and caramelise, and also to look pretty. You can stud a clove in the middle of each diamond if you like. Bored of diamonds? Use a small metal biscuit cutter – a circle or star – to stamp the fat instead.

THE GLAZE

A syrupy glaze makes for a burnished, caramelised finish to the ham fat: plain honey, maple syrup or even golden syrup or jam are all good quick fixes. But pungent spice is a good addition – mustard or ginger say. Vinegar or fruit juice lends acidity, especially if you add sugar for extra caramelisation.

To glaze and bake: brush the fat with half the glaze and bake for 10 minutes at 190C/170C/Gas 5. Brush with the rest of the glaze or sprinkle with sugar.

Bake for 10-20 minutes until brown and glistening. water). Bring to a simmer and add four tablespoons of cream. Simmer until it has the consistency of thin cream.

Shortly before serving stir in the chopped parsley leaves from a large bunch. Season with salt and pepper.

USING THE BROTH