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Problem Solved

The dealer you can trust is on hand to answer your questions on car troubles and consumer issues

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THIRTY WORK

Q I have only used my five-year-old Peugeot 308 occasional­ly since lockdown started a year ago. I have had conflictin­g advice about charging the battery. What’s your advice?

−DE

A You need to drive at least 30 miles once a week. That helps make sure the rest of the car is getting up to temperatur­e and is working as it should, as well as charging the battery. If you have a garage with a power point, you could consider a “smart” charger that can be left connected to maintain the battery at a steady 13.5 volts. A CTEK CT5 is probably the best of these because it copes with batteries on cars fitted with a stop/start system.

BLAZING STRADDLES

Q There seems to be confusing advice about how to drive over speed-restrictio­n humps in the road. You have previously suggested that straddling the cushion will eventually seriously damage a car’s tracking, suspension and steering systems, so drivers should position one wheel over the top of the cushion. Other commentato­rs suggest that it doesn’t matter how you drive over them, as long as you are within the speed limit, which is often only 20mph. Which advice is correct? −MF

A I have never given “confusing” advice about this. If you straddle a speed cushion you can severely abrade the inner shoulders of the car’s tyres, creating hidden damage that could later result in a highspeed blowout. The best option (where possible) is to traverse all speed humps slowly, at less than 20mph, with one wheel over the centre of the hump and the other on the flat road beside it. If you can safely do so, alternate sides traversing the speed hump (although, realistica­lly, this is rarely possible on crowded roads and could confuse other drivers).

MIST OPPORTUNIT­Y

Q After it has been mild and wet overnight, the windscreen of my Kia Sportage is always dripping with condensati­on. Setting the heater and fan to maximum doesn’t clear it. Any ideas? −AD

A There can be no condensati­on without moisture, so that is your problem. The most likely cause is blocked drains from the bulkhead ventilatio­n plenum chamber (under the grille at the base of the windscreen). They often collect decomposin­g leaf matter in autumn. The collected water then seeps into the car via the pollen filter, saturating it. Other possibilit­ies are a failed heater matrix (or one of its unions), or blocked drains in the door bases.

THREE-POINTED START

Q My 2016 Mercedes E-class 220 diesel still has the original battery. I will be unable to drive it for six weeks, but it will not be parked close enough to a domestic power point to allow a battery top-up system to be used while I’m away. What steps can I take to prevent the battery from going flat?

−RJ

A If you can, get someone to drive the car for 20-30 miles at least every three weeks. If that isn’t feasible, buy a mains-rechargeab­le jump starter power pack suitable for starting a diesel that can be plugged into the mains. You need to do this once a month to keep it charged. Then simply jump-start the car carefully following the instructio­ns. If the battery flattens to the extent that the electric locks won’t work and you can’t release the bonnet to access the battery, you’ll have to call out a garage or breakdown service.

CRUNCH CORNER

Q A friend badly damaged the front nearside (suspension, wing and bonnet) of his 2008 BMW 320 diesel. It has average mileage and has been comfortabl­e, economical and reliable. If his car is written off and he is offered a reasonable deal, should he buy it and get it repaired? Or should he take the money and look for a newer replacemen­t? −PB

A In good condition this car is worth £1,500-£2,000, so if proper repairs amount to that sort of money then it is a write-off. The damage you describe could have distorted the body structure and that definitely would make it a write-off. And, of course, being an EU4 diesel there will soon be a lot of restrictio­ns on where it can be driven. I’d try to persuade him to get a reliable, versatile Honda Jazz Mk2 1.4i VTEC CVT-7 (20082015). Avoid the 2008-2011 Jazz with the i-Shift gearbox, which isn’t very good.

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Q I would like a Land Rover Discovery Sport. I have always owned saloons with 3.0-litre engines, currently a BMW 330d. However, I only do about 4,000 miles a year, which sensibly should rule out a diesel. Is it disadvanta­geous to buy a petrol Discovery? I would opt for the most powerful of the petrol engines available. I am not a great fan of hybrids for practicali­ty or electric cars for cost, so I am unlikely to be tempted by these variants. What do you reckon? −RJ

A The Discovery Sport is practical and pleasant to drive. But there have been a lot of problems with the Ingenium diesel engine. (And quite a lot of problems altogether, although fewer lately.) The latest range includes a Plugin Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) while, to save fuel and cut emissions, other models are now 48v Mild Hybrid Electric (MHEV) spec. These have a belt-driven starter/alternator that recharges the 48v battery in motion and provides assistance to the internal combustion engine. I would go petrol mildhybrid. The best alternativ­e (although five-seat only) is the Volvo XC40 T5, which is also available as an MHEV.

TREADING CAREFULLY

Q I own a six-year-old Honda Jazz and had premium tyres fitted about six months ago. I have now purchased a replacemen­t Jazz, the same age but with only 9,000 miles. The tyres on the new car are probably the originals. The MoT shows the tread to be fine, but my boyfriend thinks we should swap with the old car before selling it. Is he right? − LR

A Assuming the wheels and tyres are exactly the same size, then yes, but it will take considerab­le effort. First check that you can easily loosen all of the wheel bolts (very slightly) while both cars are still on the ground. If any refuses to budge, you’re in trouble. If all 32 of them loosen, then work your way around the cars, placing removed wheels under the suspension in case a jack collapses or the car slips off.

REVERSE ENGINEERIN­G

Q You say that the new Mazda MX-30 has rear-hinged back doors. I was under the impression that these were outlawed 50 years ago. Am I correct? −JB

A Not so. As well as the MX-30, quite a few cars have rear-hinged back doors, including the Rolls-Royce Phantom and Ghost, BMW i3, Vauxhall Meriva II and the first-generation BMW Mini Clubman.

REV SOLUTION

Q I bought a two-year-old Kia Rio, with a petrol engine and manual gearbox. A few weeks after purchase it began to shudder when starting off, particular­ly on upward inclines. The dealer said there was a known problem and a replacemen­t part would be fitted (though that was delayed by the lockdown). Although there was an improvemen­t the problem was still there. A mechanic took it for a drive and reported nothing wrong. I was advised to use more revs when starting off, but that does not work for me. Is there anything I can do?

−JB

A I have received one previous complaint about the same thing. I noticed something similar years ago with a Kia Ceed; the engine is unusually quiet at low revs, so it is difficult to judge how high it is spinning. If you can’t gauge the revs from the sound of the engine, use the rev counter to ensure it’s turning at 1,500-2,000rpm before you engage the clutch.

Write to us

For consumer and used car advice, or car faults, email Honest John: honestadvi­ce@telegraph.co.uk

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