The Daily Telegraph - Saturday

‘I lost my leg, had a million illnesses. You just carry on’

The former model and ex-wife of a Beatle talks to Eleanor Steafel about saving herself, the planet, and her crisis-hit vegan food empire

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Heather Mills is a woman with “an innate ability to defy and conquer anything that falls in her path”. That’s her own assessment at least.

“Who is Heather Mills?” she asks on heathermil­ls.org, before listing the many successes that have peppered what she calls “an unusual life of extraordin­ary circumstan­ces”. It’s a good question. According to her bio, she has excelled in various areas, including but not limited to: business, sport and activism (did you know she had been nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize? No, nor me.) In fact, she has had so many lives, it could be hard to pin her down.

You might remember Mills as a model or a charity campaigner. You might recall that she lost her left leg when she was hit by a police motorbike in Kensington in 1993. You might remember her militant veganism or her phone hacking trial, or even her stint as a world record breaking skier. More likely, you’ll know her as the former wife of a Beatle.

We meet at her vegan food factory in Peterlee, County Durham, to talk about VBites, the vegan empire Mills founded in 2009 and has just brought back from the brink of collapse.

In an office in the factory – which is vast and strangely quiet, though she tells me they make upwards of 75 tons of meat-free products a week – she sits at a conference table, peering at a laptop over thick rimmed glasses.

She is wearing a sharp, lurid green Victoria Beckham suit; her blonde hair is sleek and pulled back, her nails long. Beckham, incidental­ly, is something of a personal hero. “I really admire her,” she says. “I love what she’s done with her life.”

The whole effect is very “Apprentice contestant”, which I soon realise is no accident. She is keen to appear as a titan of industry. She wants you to understand she has an unrivalled grasp on everything from entreprene­urship to the nation’s health, to local politics, to the gut microbiome, to the vegan food industry.

She may well do, but to most, she is probably still the woman who threw a jug of water over Paul McCartney’s lawyer during her divorce proceeding­s.

I’ve been forewarned she won’t speak about her ex-husband today, but as the story goes, he fell for her when she presented an award at the

Daily Mirror’s Pride of Britain ceremony in 1999.

McCartney was there to give an award in memory of his wife Linda, who had died the year before. Mills and he dated, married and their daughter, Beatrice, now 20, was born in 2003. By 2006, it was all in (very public) flames. Mills was awarded a £24.3million payout in their 2008 divorce; she had sought £125million. Outside court, she told reporters she was relieved to “secure mine and Beatrice’s future and all the charities I plan on helping”.

Mills was a mainstay in the tabloids before McCartney, for her looks, her accident, and then her charity work. When she lost her leg, she was described as the “£200,000-a-year model with a golden future” who had had her career cruelly taken from her.

In recent years, Mills has reinvented herself as a poster girl for veganism. She built a business making meat and dairy substitute­s for supermarke­ts and chains – VBites produces the vegan cheese for Domino’s pizza and has worked with McDonald’s.

You suspect it also kept Mills in the press and gave her a soapbox to stand on. She always had a personal story to tell – Mills credits veganism with healing all manner of personal health crises, from the recovery from her accident, to her debilitati­ng gut troubles, to the two ectopic pregnancie­s she suffered during her first marriage to businessma­n Alfie Karmal – but she wanted to save the planet too, ideally while coming out on top as a successful businesswo­man.

In the 2000s, the plant-based sector was booming. Then things began to slump – last year was hailed as a nadir for vegan food. In December, VBites collapsed into administra­tion.

At the time, stories cited rising cost pressures and a failure to secure fresh funding. Mills issued an excoriatin­g statement blaming Brexit, the Government, and the meat and dairy industries, which she said had “galvanised misinforma­tion” around vegan food.

She wrote that she had put “blood, sweat and tears” into her business for “the sole purpose of furthering the plant-based movement”. Her efforts to save it had been “thwarted by a demand that I stepped away from day to day management, in order to secure essential investment”. Meanwhile, she said, VBites had been a victim of “poor management”.

Who was responsibl­e for that poor management was rather less clear. Ahead of our interview, an email arrives from her assistant. “You may not be aware that Heather has invested millions, lost millions because of bad management and never taken a dividend in any of her plant-based businesses to try and help the animals, one’s health and save the planet… It is time the true story of just what

Heather has done is told…”

Interviewi­ng Mills is an exercise in keeping up. She bombards you with facts and figures at such lightning speed that talking to her feels a bit like riding a runaway train. She is at once on the defensive and strangely open. She also has a score to settle. In fact, you suspect she has spent much of her life settling scores.

After Brexit, she predicted “there was going to be a disaster in the North East”. “All the factories started closing down, and this was one of them.”

She had begun mulling over an idea to make the North East, where she grew up, a kind of plant-based Silicon Valley, with thriving factories churning out innovative vegan food and providing jobs. “It could have been the plant-based valley of the world,” she says.

Mills considers herself something of a politician and has claimed previously to have been asked by all three of the major parties to stand for office.

It’s interestin­g that Mills, 56, who lives in Kent, still feels a pull to the North East. From everything I’ve read, it must hold painful memories.

She grew up in the town of Washington, daughter of a former Army officer she has described as “abusive” and a mother who ran off to London with an actor when she was nine. Mills has said she didn’t see her mother for “three or four years”.

When she was 13, her father was sent to prison for fraud, after which Mills moved to London. Today, she remembers him as “a really male chauvinist dick of a dad”. “He was a horrible character that I never spoke to in 30 years.” He died 10 years ago.

Mills is still close to her biochemist half-sister, who lives in the area. “A lot of my best mates are here… So I’ve got a lot of brilliant memories here as far as friends are concerned.”

Mills considers herself a survivor of a “horrible childhood”. “Since then I’ve worked in war zones, I’ve seen people blown up. It’s like, it’s all relative. Lost my leg, had a million illnesses. More scar tissue, you just carry on.”

It’s all a matter of attitude, she says. “It depends how you set your mind. For me it’s like: came from nothing and managed to make a lot happen and keep my friendship­s.” Another neat line for the Heather Mills bio.

These days, she is in the North East visiting her factories four days a week. Before 2021, when Mills took investment from a German company which she says marks the beginning of a torrid time for VBites, things were going well. “I had Burger King in Zurich saying can you make [us] your vegan burger?”

Things grew more difficult when Brexit snarled up the export of her vegan cheese. “So suddenly where you had a little margin that we could give to charity you had none.”

Mills says she doesn’t take any money from her vegan empire and any profits go to charity.

Mills won a payout from News Group in 2019. She and her sister Fiona said in court they’d had “strange activity with their telephones” with “journalist­s and photograph­ers turning up in unexpected locations”. Newspaper stories appeared featuring private informatio­n “without any apparent identifiab­le source”. She says it took her “17 years to prove the phone hacking”. Since then, she says, the media have largely left her alone. Or in her words: “Nobody’s wrote any crap”.

Mills said being a victim of hacking by the News of the World had impacted her “ability to raise funds” for her landmine and animal charities. These days “any profits we make always go to cover those”. Hillary Clinton once thanked her for her charity work, or more specifical­ly for “the person she is and the work that she does”. You can find that particular clip on Mills’s YouTube channel, naturally.

When German snacks company Pfeifer and Langen (P&L) came in as minority investors in VBites, Mills hoped funds from a big corporatio­n would accelerate VBites’ growth.

But it didn’t play out that way. According to Mills, P&L withdrew their funding in February 2023 “with three days’ notice” – and “just before payroll” – forcing her to find “about £1.2 million.”

The Nature’s Richness Group, a division of P&L, says it didn’t withdraw funding. Rather, VBites “did not meet the requiremen­ts for further funding”.

How did Mills find the money? “Well, because I basically have properties and that’s how I live.” Not that she rents them out. “I just give them rent-free.”

It helped, she says, that she’d just sold a factory she’d bought in Northumber­land in 2019. “So I had some money from there. And that’s how I managed to fund [VBites] to make sure people kept their jobs and kept going.”

In December 2023, administra­tors were instructed, although Mills claims taking the company into administra­tion was unnecessar­y. Staff were let go and she decided to bid for her own company.

“I was like, ‘Screw you’,” she says. She adds: “And I won, which nobody was happy about apart from my staff.”

Mills admits she has been “naive”. “I really regret having taken investment. It would be something that I’d warn [others] really really be careful about as a small family business taking on big corporates. It’s all in the fine detail.”

She brushes off any suggestion this has been a hard time for her. “I’ve been through so much mentally.” It’s what she feels as injustice that she can’t bear. “It’s like just tell me to my face. Just tell me, ‘We’re going to try to take the company’. I hate it, because I’m dead straight.”

We walk from the office to an unused area in the factory for Mills to have her photo taken. Her assistant turns to me. “I could listen to her all day. She’s got some mad stories hasn’t she?” That she has. There is a typically odd one behind the new range she is launching as part of the VBites reboot, in fact. “No Bloat” is meant for people who are suffering with bloating or acid reflux. It is inspired by Mills’s own digestive struggles, which stem from a bout of Lyme disease she contracted in 1999, when she was on a fact-finding mission in Cambodia with the Duchess of Kent.

She was reporting for an Esther Rantzen programme (another of Mills’s many lives – as a TV journalist) when she was bitten, she believes, “by a dengue fly”. When she fell ill, doctors said she’d contracted dengue fever. “They misdiagnos­ed it. It was actually Lyme. Lyme disease comes from anything that carries the disease… It’s a big myth that it’s only from deer.”

The Lyme wreaked havoc on her body. “It wiped out my microbiome, my colon, everything,” she says. “My appendix burst. They rushed me to hospital just in time. Then they took my gallbladde­r out, which they didn’t need to take out. So I suddenly couldn’t digest anything. So I had to live off liquid food for three years.”

Mills was ski racing then (you’ll recall she had a stint in the 2010s as a pro skier – she still holds the record for the fastest disabled woman on skis) and couldn’t afford a sensitive digestive system. “I had to live perfectly because there are no toilets at the top of a mountain. It’s covered in white snow. And if you have an accident it’s not great. I would lose complete control of my bowels and have to jump out of cars.”

The Lyme created “a putrefied appendix”, which meant she was “always in agony”. She went to Germany for further tests. “In the UK they test blood whereas in Germany they test urine,” she explains. “They told me straight away, ‘You’ve got Lyme disease and you’ve had it for a long time.’”

There are, it should be said, a few problems with this story. Namely: there is no mosquito species known to harbour the bacterium that causes Lyme; there’s no evidence that Lyme affects your gut microbiome; appendicit­is is not epidemiolo­gically associated with the disease; and urine testing to diagnose it is not, in the words of one expert, “mainstream medicine”.

However she contracted these illnesses, it does sound as if she had a rough time of it.

VBites’ new line is for people suffering as she has. “Fifty per cent of the UK are living off antacids and PPIs [proton pump inhibitors],” Mills explains, as we talk – not, it should be said, over a stomach-settling ginger tea, but black coffee.

I can’t say I’ve been able to find much scientific data to back up the idea that half the population are popping antacids, but Mills is nothing if not persuasive.

“Imagine you’ve had a life of putrefied meat in your colon, they’ve done Godiva experiment­s on people who have been vegetarian 30 years, die at 70 and they’ve still got putrefied meat in their colon. Just sitting in the crevices.”

I think she must mean “cadaver”, not “Godiva”. But I get her gist: eat a lamb chop and it’ll stick around in your body.

These days, Mills has worked out the exact amount of certain ingredient­s she can eat without being in pain. “Thirty-two peanuts, no problem; you go to 38 and there’s a tipping point.”

She lives what sounds like a tightly controlled life and works constantly. “I sleep four hours.” On Mondays, after an hour in the gym, she gets a train from Kent to St Pancras and on to the north to visit her factories, staying with a childhood friend until Thursday evening when she takes a train back down south.

Life is “a suitcase”. “For 30 years I’ve never slept in the same bed for more than two weeks ever.” This sounds like a slight exaggerati­on. Even when Beatrice was young? “We were on tour all the time so that was moving. And then when school came we had joint custody so I would only travel on the days that our child was with their father.”

Mills won’t be drawn on her daughter other than to say she has finished university and is “working”. Keeping her out of the spotlight has been her “biggest achievemen­t”. “Thank goodness I did because our child wants nothing to do with public life.”

Last year, it was reported Mills was engaged to businessma­n Michael Dickman, whom she “met on a train” and is 17 years her junior. In fact they aren’t engaged, she says, but have been happily together for five years.

I wonder why she is still plugging away when the vegan sector appears to be in freefall. It isn’t, she says, this is just a blip. The industry simply became “saturated with a lot of bad products”. “People would try them and go, ‘Urgh, I’m not doing vegan.’ And so it started to push the train backwards that we’d been pushing uphill for decades.”

Investors who pull funding from vegan start-ups “will regret it”, she warns.

For her part, Mills wants to be “left alone to do the work that has to be done”. She believes vehemently in the power of “keeping things positive”. “That’s, I suppose, how I’ve overcome and survived all the madness.”

And with that I leave her to it, before she has time to tell me about that

Nobel Peace Prize.

‘I can eat 32 peanuts, no problem. You go to 38 and there’s a tipping point’

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