The Daily Telegraph - Saturday
The truth about retinol – and how to avoid the ‘uglies’
Annabel Jones
There are few skincare ingredients that are debated as fiercely as retinol. The vitamin A derivative that’s so clever it treats acne and the signs of ageing in equal measure has its share of critics as well as devout followers, including Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley and Nicole Kidman. New EU regulations, which come into force at the end of 2024, will restrict cosmetic retinoids over 0.3 per cent, so a refresher in what dermatologists consider the gold standard in the anti-ageing ingredient is due.
WHAT IS A RETINOID?
Retinol, as it’s commonly known, is part of a family of molecules called retinoids, the most powerful being retinoic acid or tretinoin, the topical skin treatment prescribed by dermatologists to clear acne. First given FDA approval in 1971, tretinoin has been scientifically proven to reduce acne scarring and prevent pores from clogging. More generally, it’s been shown to have anti-ageing properties by speeding up cell turnover, improving skin tone and diminishing wrinkles.
When news got out that retinoic acid had cosmetic benefits, skincare companies took to their labs to find a consumer-friendly alternative. The answer was retinol, a gentler iteration that doesn’t require a prescription. Since then numerous retinoid solutions in varying strengths have made their way into cosmetic skin creams. But with smarter, less irritating ingredients like peptides gaining popularity, do they still merit your money? And if so, which one is right for you?
THE RETINOID TYPES
Whereas retinoic acid works directly on the skin cells, retinol and its cousins retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) and retinyl esters need to be metabolised and converted into retinoic acid within the skin. The number of conversions it takes to get there determines its efficacy and potency.
Retinolaldehyde or retinal is one conversion away from retinoic acid, pure retinol takes two, whereas retinyl palmitate or propionate require three, thus these tend to be weaker in strength but, as a consequence, less irritating on skin.
Granactive retinol, or HPR, however, is deemed a clever new retinoid that works directly on the skin’s retinoic acid receptors like tretinoin, therefore doesn’t require metabolising, but has the same low-irritation characteristics as retinol esters, making it stronger but gentler than retinol.
A slight caveat: HPR doesn’t have the body of evidence that pure retinol has, making it less favourable with some scientists.
THE HIERARCHY OF RETINOIDS: PERCENTAGES AND DOSAGE It seems logical to assume that the higher the percentage of retinoid, the better it is at targeting ageing, but the higher the dose, the greater the risk of irritation. Some brands, such as Medik8 and Skinceuticals, carry numerous percentages from 0.3 per cent up to 1 per cent, allowing customers to work their way up as their skin gets used to it.
Dr Mike Bell, the head of skincare science at No7, says, however, that
0.3 per cent pure retinol is the axis point where benefits are effective and the risk of irritation is low – once you exceed this threshold, increased sensitivity starts to outweigh the benefits.
TACKLING SENSITIVITY Dermatologist Stefanie Williams recommends tapering a low dose retinoid product into your routine twice a week at night for two weeks then building up to applying it every other day. “It’s not necessary to experience irritation to get results and I don’t recommend anyone soldier on if they’re experiencing side effects.
When this happens it usually means they’re using one that’s too strong for their skin type or they’re applying it too often,” she explains.
The soldiering on phase is referred to as retinisation or purging – some retinol enthusiasts call it the “retinol uglies” which was once considered a rite of passage for first-time users. Get through the confidence crushing stage of dry, inflamed skin and after a month you’ll emerge with an angelic complexion.
These days, however, the uglies have been mitigated by better formulations that encapsulate retinoids in lipid structures that are bioavailable. As vitamin A is an oil-soluble vitamin, encasing it in a microscopic lipid
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A good-quality retinoid serum will be formulated with complimentary ingredients that help to make it more tolerable and multi-tasking, including hydrators like ceramides, squalane, and hyaluronic acid and skin barrier promoters such as niacinamide.
What is the gold standard of this much-debated anti-ageing ingredient?
finds out
THE IMPORTANCE OF SPF WHEN USING RETINOIDS
While studies show retinoids boost collagen in the long term, this doesn’t discount the sun damage that can occur during a period of retinoid use. For this reason, No7 has created a product that includes a safe dose of pure retinol with a separate application of SPF30 to encourage users to protect their skin from potential harm.
“Combining retinol with an SPF 30 in the same pot is our way of ensuring that daily SPF is used,” says Dr Bell, the scientist behind last year’s sell-out serum Future Renew, adding that a higher strength retinol should be used night time only, followed by
SPF in the day.