Travel

Cosy Scan­di­na­vian hide­aways, by Francesca Syz

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - NEWS -

Four of the best Scan­di­na­vian hide­aways

Just get­ting to Aurora Sa­fari Camp on the banks of the lake-like Råne river – hun­kered down on a sleigh be­ing pulled by a snow­mo­bile – is a thrilling ex­pe­ri­ence. Then there is the camp it­self: an African sa­fari-style af­fair with four Nordic tipis, which are weirdly won­der­ful and, more im­por­tantly, toasty warm in­side. Each is spa­cious and fur­nished with a wood-burn­ing stove and up to four sin­gle beds. There is also a lounge tent with a bar, where or­ganic food is served, and an out­door fre­place. With wash­rooms si­t­u­ated a short walk away but no show­ers, this is one for trav­ellers who en­joy rough­ing it, but seated around the campfre wrapped in reindeer hides, mod­ern con­ve­niences some­how pale into in­signif­cance. The camp is run by Swedish pho­tog­ra­pher Fredrik Bro­man, who is happy to dis­pense tips on how best to cap­ture the North­ern Lights, which you may well see. He will also take you ice-fsh­ing, snow­mo­bil­ing, dog-sled­ding and stargaz­ing. Aber­crom­bie & Kent (01242-547760; aber­crom­biekent.co.uk) of­fers a three-night full-board stay from £2,250pp, in­clud­ing re­turn fights from Lon­don and trans­fers.

Bri­tish pro­fes­sional moun­tain guide and ski teacher Gra­ham Au­stick stum­bled across the se­cluded fjord-side spot within the Arc­tic Cir­cle on which he would build Lyn­gen Lodge while on a ski trip. He knew in­stantly it would be the most amaz­ing place to open a ski lodge. He sought out the farmer who would sell him the land, and in 2008, along with

Nor­we­gian co-owner, skier and moun­taineer Elis­a­beth Braa­then, he launched this eight-room haven. A three-hour drive from Tromsø, it is well-run and friendly, and while open year-round, is par­tic­u­larly glo­ri­ous now, with cosy bed­rooms, a lounge and bar with a roar­ing fre and amaz­ing

views across the fjord, and a din­ing room serv­ing food made from lo­cal in­gre­di­ents such as reindeer, cod and salmon. There is also a sauna and a Jacuzzi. Ac­tiv­i­ties on of­fer in­clude ski­ing, snow-shoe­ing, dog-sled­ding and ice-fsh­ing, plus there’s a good chance of see­ing the North­ern

Lights. Best Served Scan­di­navia (020-7838 5869; best-served.co.uk) of­fers three nights in a dou­ble room, full-board, from £1,235pp, in­clud­ing re­turn fights from Gatwick to Tromsø.

Built by a count in 1744 as a pub­lic house and dis­tillery, this inn is ideal for a foodie week­end. While it has been re­con­structed a cou­ple of times, its de­sign, a strik­ing thatched quad­ran­gle, has re­mained the same for al­most 200 years. It was ac­quired by Lene and Sven Grøn­lykke in 1969, and the fam­ily has run it as a gourmet re­treat ever since; now their chil­dren are at the helm. Set within lovely gar­dens sweep­ing down to a beach next to Fal­sled town har­bour, the inn’s 19 an­tique-flled bed­rooms are shared be­tween the orig­i­nal inn and two other his­toric build­ings within the grounds. The ex­cel­lent restau­rant is over­seen by chef Per Hal­lund­baek, who serves up French-in­fuenced re­gional cui­sine us­ing lo­cal in­gre­di­ents – such as codfsh and ra­zor clams, leeks and truffes, pi­geon and cele­riac – and salmon smoked on site. In warmer months, there is an out­door fre­place and bi­cy­cles to bor­row. There are sev­eral fights from Lon­don to Bil­lund, and a new daily route with Bri­tish Air­ways starts in May. From Bil­lund, it’s a one-and-halfhour drive. Small dou­bles from £211 (0045-6268 1111; fal­sled­kro.dk).

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