Drink me

Hamish An­der­son

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - THE CUT -

While in­di­vid­ual sea­sons in­flu­ence what we can, and want, to eat, wine from a given vin­tage is an ex­pres­sion of the sea­sons as whole. Win­ter, spring, sum­mer and au­tumn all in­flu­ence the fi­nal taste and, just as im­por­tantly for the pro­duc­ers, who rely on grapes for in­come, vol­ume. There are cer­tain wines that have the brevity and fo­cus of, say, the as­para­gus sea­son: Beau­jo­lais Nou­veau (long out of fash­ion but now en­joy­ing a re­vival with the rest of the re­gion’s wines) is one. Its juicy, sim­ple plea­sures beg for an at­mo­spheric wine bar and some cured meats: the sea­son is late Novem­ber through to Christ­mas.

The weather nat­u­rally in­flu­ences our wine choices: roast leg of lamb served on a chilly win­ter’s evening nat­u­rally leads to a deep, sat­is­fy­ing red. The same dish served out­side on a warm sum­mer’s day might have you search­ing for a young red with bite and a propen­sity to be lightly chilled. Rosé is the ul­ti­mate sea­sonal wine; the same much-loved bot­tle does not pro­vide the same plea­sure in win­ter as it did in the sum­mer.

Here are three wines to try in March. 2015 The Lot Se­ries Pinot Blanc, Baden, Ger­many, £9.99, Aldi One of the high­lights at the last Aldi tast­ing, this is rich and tex­tu­ral, and the aro­mat­ics are ideal for the smoke in Great Dix­ter’s mack­erel pâté. 2014 Setze Gallers, Cel­lar del Roure, Va­len­cia, Spain £7.25,The Wine So­ci­ety This is full of char­ac­ter with warm, dark fruit and a smoky, earthy core: more than you’d ex­pect from its price tag. Try with the lamb. 2012 Domaine Rotier Re­nais­sance Ven­dan­ges Tar­dives, £14.99, Waitrose A crack­ing bot­tle of sweet wine. It is dom­i­nated by fruit: peaches jump out at you against a whis­per of spice. Su­perb with fruity based desserts.

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