Travel

On safari in Tanzania’s Ruaha National Park

RUAHA NATIONAL PARK – the largest in Tanzania – is a wild and interesting alternative to Serengeti, which is expensive and often overrun with tourists. Ruaha has an intriguing atmosphere, and one of its finest camps is Kwihala, owned and run by Asilia Africa, in the northern section. It is small – only six tents – and exquisitely inviting; comfortable and beautifully run by Tam Hoskyns. The luxury is all in the surrounding landscape. Ruaha covers 20,000 square kilometres – about the size of Wales. The big cat viewing is excellent and there are up to 13,000 elephants and a vivid array of bird life.

The elephants were in full view when I looked out of my tent each morning, and often came very close to the dining tent; there is no more gratifying sight than watching elephants peacefully grazing nearby. Ruaha has a gloriously diverse landscape: the serene Mwagusi river winds through it, its fertile banks and flats providing exotic picnicking areas, and the terrain is peppered with vast boulders like giant eggs. There are also woodlands, open plains and a wealth of beautiful greenery: a forest of baobabs, acacia and sausage trees,euph or bi a and huge cactuses. There can’t be many national parks where baobabs rub up against palm trees.

We watched a lioness stalking an impala, several elephants scrapping, and – a rare treat – a leopard casually crossing the road in front of us. My guide, Tony Zephania, is a self-taught birding expert, and has just been nominated for an award; his attentiveness and knowledge were exceptional. The days followed the usual seductive timetable: an early game drive with a ‘ bonnet breakfast ’ of bacon and egg rolls, muesli or fruit salad; light lunches back in camp; a long afternoon drive followed by drinks around the fire with Tam and the guides; and finally dinner outside. Bush walks can also be taken there, and night drives.

For those who want something more luxurious, Asilia’s Jabali Ridge is opening this month in Ruaha. Set high on a beautiful rocky kopje, it comes complete with a spa and an infinity pool (though a swimming pool on safari feels slightly wrong to me, like wearing a dinner jacket in the bush). But among huge competition, Kwihala remains a very special place to safari.