Home cook­ing

Fam­i­lies of chefs who are also dab hands around the stove

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - THE CUT - Amy Bryant

WHEN­EVER I ASK a chef, in the course of an in­ter­view for these pages or dur­ing five min­utes snatched over din­ner at their restau­rant, ‘So, what do you cook at home?’ the an­swer is of­ten the same. ‘No time!’ they say; ‘Beans on toast!’; or, ‘My part­ner does the cook­ing.’ For a pro­fes­sion that de­mands so many hours spent stove-side, it ’s no sur­prise (al­though plenty of ‘at home’ cook­books show our culi­nary greats beam­ing over a bur­nished roast or painstak­ingly wind­ing a pasta ma­chine to pro­duce fresh tagli­atelle). That’s not to say that their near­est and dear­est go hun­gry. Far from it, since many of those who live with a pro­fes­sional chef are ac­com­plished cooks them­selves, ei­ther through os­mo­sis, or via train­ing in kitchens or cater­ing school be­cause they, too, have got the bug.

Michel Roux Jr’s wife and daugh­ter are no ex­cep­tion. Giselle Roux’s south­ern-french up­bring­ing in­stilled in her the im­por­tance of pu­rity when mak­ing soup (‘one or two veg­eta­bles as a rule... rather than a mish­mash’, she writes in their new book, New French Ta­ble), and pre­serv­ing gar­den gluts. Mean­while, 25-year-old Emily al­ready works for her fa­ther ’s cater­ing busi­ness af­ter years spent cook­ing in restau­rants across France. Both women in­spire each other, merg­ing tra­di­tional home-spun prac­tices with pro­fes­sional te chniques, when they cook to­gether.

Next month, Na­dine Levy Redzepi pub­lishes her book, Down­time. The wife of Noma chef René, Na­dine runs the book­ings for the Dan­ish restau­rant four times crowned best in the world, and cooks con­stantly. Her recipes – baked salmon with thyme; brandied plum cake – share help­ful tips that have you feel­ing, as with the Roux fam­ily, that you’re in good hands. New French Ta­ble, by Emily and Giselle Roux (Mitchell Bea­z­ley, £25); Down­time: De­li­cious­ness at Home, by Na­dine Levy Redzepi (Ebury Press, £27)

Keep­ing it in the fam­ily Giselle and Emily Roux tuck in to one of Emily’s recipes, oc­to­pus salad with chilli may­on­naise

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