Like almost every part of Italy where grapes can grow, Salina produces wine. In common with Lipari, its near neighbour, and Pantelleria, its more famous vinous cousin to the south-west of Sicily, the island has a winemaking history that goes back to antiquity. The wines are generally sweet (for centuries the most highly prized style) and mostly made from the malvasia grape. I’ve never tried one, but we can be pretty certain that they will not be a good partner to pizza. For that I imagine the restaurant looks south to Sicily. The island used to be defined by marsala, a sweet wine that is now used almost exclusively for cooking. Today the region has moved on from producing wine in bulk, and boasts a dynamic industry. Mount Etna could just be fashioning Italy’s hippest wines. The surprise is the sheer range of styles the island can produce: crisp, aromatic and full white; burly red from the likes of nero d’avola; lightweight red frappato; and of course the wild fragrance produced by red grapes grown high up the slopes of Etna. The three below have the necessary bite of acidity for pizza, but of course you’ll find many other excuses to drink them.