Drink me

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - THE CUT - Hamish An­der­son

Like al­most ev­ery part of Italy where grapes can grow, Salina pro­duces wine. In com­mon with Li­pari, its near neigh­bour, and Pan­tel­le­ria, its more fa­mous vi­nous cousin to the south-west of Si­cily, the is­land has a wine­mak­ing his­tory that goes back to an­tiq­uity. The wines are gen­er­ally sweet (for cen­turies the most highly prized style) and mostly made from the mal­va­sia grape. I’ve never tried one, but we can be pretty cer­tain that they will not be a good part­ner to pizza. For that I imag­ine the restau­rant looks south to Si­cily. The is­land used to be de­fined by marsala, a sweet wine that is now used al­most ex­clu­sively for cook­ing. To­day the re­gion has moved on from pro­duc­ing wine in bulk, and boasts a dy­namic in­dus­try. Mount Etna could just be fash­ion­ing Italy’s hippest wines. The sur­prise is the sheer range of styles the is­land can pro­duce: crisp, aro­matic and full white; burly red from the likes of nero d’avola; light­weight red frap­pato; and of course the wild fra­grance pro­duced by red grapes grown high up the slopes of Etna. The three be­low have the nec­es­sary bite of acid­ity for pizza, but of course you’ll find many other ex­cuses to drink them.

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