Tast­ing notes

Chefs’ kitchen-ta­ble feasts

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - 21.07.18 - Amy Bryant

WHEN RESTAU­RANT CHEFS di­vulge what they cook at home, an omelette, or a tin of tuna on toast, is usu­ally the ex­tent of it. Af­ter 12-plus hours at the stove, who’d blame them for not knock­ing up hand-rolled pasta or slow-cooked pork belly, or not even want­ing to eat for that mat­ter?

There are some cooks, though, around whose kitchen ta­ble many of us would love to feast. Be­ing of­fered a nip of Fer­net­branca by St John master­mind Fer­gus Hen­der­son at his and wife Mar­got’s home, while a goose bur­nished in the oven, topped my list last year. And hav­ing squeezed round one of the tiny ta­bles groan­ing with ten­der lamb shawarma and tahini-crusted aubergine at Honey & Co in Fitzrovia, I could only imag­ine how good din­ner would be chez Sarit Packer and Ita­mar Srulovich, its co-founders. Un­til now – for this month the Is­raeli cou­ple pub­lished their new book, Honey & Co: At Home (Pavil­ion, £26).

It was their kitchen, in their south Lon­don home, that they ran­sacked in or­der to open the restau­rant in 2013 (they now have three out­lets), and it’s where they cook spiced lamb and fish tagine for each other, if ever they get home­sick for the flavours of their child­hood. The book is laced with touch­ing de­tail (when mak­ing scram­bled eggs, Packer scoops out Srulovich’s early be­cause he prefers them runny). It’s also packed with dishes that shout ‘make me!’ for our own de­li­cious din­ners, while we wait for that in­vi­ta­tion.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.