My October pudding – a rethink of baklava – may look like an ode to brown-ness, but try it
and pork sausage meat, a few finely chopped capers adds a touch of salty earthiness. And it looks gorgeous.
I make a lot of smooth soups over the winter, using sweet potato, or squash, perhaps a combination of chestnuts, apples and parsnips. The appeal of all these velvety broths can be raised a level or two, however, with a flavoured oil. My celeriac soup is uplifted with a bright oil made with the tender leaves taken from inside a celery head.
You can play endlessly with herb oils, to the same effect: adding crumbled fried sage or lemon thyme, fresh rocket, pea shoots or watercress leaves to extravirgin olive or rapeseed oil. Speaking of which, watercress is another local ingredient I use often. Its peppery tang gives warmth to a salad of fried smoked eel and pears.
My October pudding is a rethink of baklava using maple syrup, served with sautéed British apples. It may look like an ode to brown-ness, but try it: I think you’ll be convinced that the taste is pure gold. Rose Prince will be cooking a Dorset feast at William Sitwell’s Weston Supper Club, Northamptonshire, on 26 October. For tickets, go to williamsitwell.com