My Oc­to­ber pud­ding – a re­think of baklava – may look like an ode to brown-ness, but try it

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut Food -

and pork sausage meat, a few finely chopped ca­pers adds a touch of salty earth­i­ness. And it looks gor­geous.

I make a lot of smooth soups over the win­ter, us­ing sweet potato, or squash, per­haps a com­bi­na­tion of chest­nuts, ap­ples and parsnips. The ap­peal of all these vel­vety broths can be raised a level or two, how­ever, with a flavoured oil. My cele­riac soup is up­lifted with a bright oil made with the ten­der leaves taken from in­side a cel­ery head.

You can play end­lessly with herb oils, to the same ef­fect: adding crum­bled fried sage or le­mon thyme, fresh rocket, pea shoots or wa­ter­cress leaves to ex­travir­gin olive or rape­seed oil. Speak­ing of which, wa­ter­cress is an­other lo­cal in­gre­di­ent I use of­ten. Its pep­pery tang gives warmth to a salad of fried smoked eel and pears.

My Oc­to­ber pud­ding is a re­think of baklava us­ing maple syrup, served with sautéed Bri­tish ap­ples. It may look like an ode to brown-ness, but try it: I think you’ll be con­vinced that the taste is pure gold. Rose Prince will be cook­ing a Dorset feast at Wil­liam Sitwell’s We­ston Sup­per Club, Northamp­ton­shire, on 26 Oc­to­ber. For tick­ets, go to william­

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