Drink me

Pinot per­fec­tion

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut Food - Hamish An­der­son

Bur­gundy’s red wines, made from pinot noir, have given me more plea­sure than any oth­ers over the years. The re­gion’s qual­ity has risen dra­mat­i­cally since my first sip – and so has de­mand and price. The search for good pinot out­side Bur­gundy, then, is all the more rel­e­vant, and the coun­try I rec­om­mend is Ger­many. Wil­fully ob­scure, per­haps, un­til you con­sider that it’s the third-largest pro­ducer of the va­ri­ety world­wide. Plant­ings have in­creased con­sid­er­ably and so has ex­po­sure, with Ger­man pinot now found on the best wine lists. As vine­yards are spread across the coun­try, it is hard to gen­er­alise, but a gen­eros­ity of fruit will ap­peal to those who en­joy New World pinot, while del­i­cacy and lay­ers of flavour mimic clas­sic Bur­gundies. Called Spät­bur­gun­der in situ, it is of­ten la­belled pinot noir for ex­port. As any long-suf­fer­ing fan knows, the grape rarely comes cheaply and Ger­many’s wines are no dif­fer­ent. But they de­liver ex­cel­lent value, par­tic­u­larly when you start to move up the price lad­der.

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