Burgundy’s red wines, made from pinot noir, have given me more pleasure than any others over the years. The region’s quality has risen dramatically since my first sip – and so has demand and price. The search for good pinot outside Burgundy, then, is all the more relevant, and the country I recommend is Germany. Wilfully obscure, perhaps, until you consider that it’s the third-largest producer of the variety worldwide. Plantings have increased considerably and so has exposure, with German pinot now found on the best wine lists. As vineyards are spread across the country, it is hard to generalise, but a generosity of fruit will appeal to those who enjoy New World pinot, while delicacy and layers of flavour mimic classic Burgundies. Called Spätburgunder in situ, it is often labelled pinot noir for export. As any long-suffering fan knows, the grape rarely comes cheaply and Germany’s wines are no different. But they deliver excellent value, particularly when you start to move up the price ladder.