Italy’s wines continue to be a popular choice among drinkers not only because of our continued love for pinot grigio, but because of its huge diversity both geographically and across grape varieties; almost any kind of style can be made, satisfying a wide spectrum of tastes. Many Italian wines demand to be drunk with food; there is a vein of fresh acid running through them, while key red varieties that have not been tamed by modern winery techniques retain a firm grip of tannin that is best countered by rich food. And while fruit often dominates the tasting notes of many of the world’s wines, it is savoury descriptors that I find most useful for Italy’s: herbs, leather, meat and minerals. There is nothing like enjoying a wine in situ to cement it into your drinking habits, of course, and I suspect the most important factor in Italy’s popularity is the sheer number of Italian restaurants in the UK, from the top-end brilliance of the River Cafe to simple independent trattorias, all promoting Italian wine. Here are three food-friendly bottles to seek out.