Hamish Anderson Though it happens every year, I’m always amazed by how a change in the weather has an immediate impact on what we sell in the Tate restaurants. At the first signs of spring, rosé that has languished in the back of the cellar all winter quickly disappears. Eating lighter dishes and drinking lighter wine as the weather warms is logical, yet the sun seems also to trigger a desire for different flavours. Fragrance and pristine fruit take precedence over the savoury, multilayered bottles of the previous five months. In the winter, I drink rich whites not chilled too heavily, but as soon as the sun comes out, I move to whites that are properly fridge-cold – manzanilla sherry, sauvignon blanc, riesling. It’s not just temperature – aromatics become important, and a desire for wine that jumps at you from the glass. It’s not yet warm enough to move to light, chilled summer reds, but still I gradually start to err on the side of purity of fruit rather than the deep, booming reds of the winter. Simple côtes du rhône, youthful chianti, pinot noir or vibrant Spanish garnacha are all good candidates to bridge the divide between seasons.