Drink me

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut // Food -

Spring favourites

Hamish An­der­son Though it hap­pens ev­ery year, I’m al­ways amazed by how a change in the weather has an im­me­di­ate im­pact on what we sell in the Tate restau­rants. At the first signs of spring, rosé that has lan­guished in the back of the cel­lar all win­ter quickly dis­ap­pears. Eat­ing lighter dishes and drink­ing lighter wine as the weather warms is log­i­cal, yet the sun seems also to trig­ger a de­sire for dif­fer­ent flavours. Fra­grance and pris­tine fruit take prece­dence over the savoury, mul­ti­lay­ered bot­tles of the pre­vi­ous five months. In the win­ter, I drink rich whites not chilled too heav­ily, but as soon as the sun comes out, I move to whites that are prop­erly fridge-cold – man­zanilla sherry, sau­vi­gnon blanc, ries­ling. It’s not just tem­per­a­ture – aro­mat­ics be­come im­por­tant, and a de­sire for wine that jumps at you from the glass. It’s not yet warm enough to move to light, chilled sum­mer reds, but still I grad­u­ally start to err on the side of pu­rity of fruit rather than the deep, boom­ing reds of the win­ter. Sim­ple côtes du rhône, youth­ful chi­anti, pinot noir or vi­brant Span­ish gar­nacha are all good can­di­dates to bridge the di­vide be­tween sea­sons.

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