Grüner the better
Grape varieties go in and out of fashion, yet even when entering the mainstream some retain a sense of cool. Ask a sommelier for sauvignon and there will be an internal weary groan; order grüner and their interest in you will be assured for the rest of the meal. Grüner veltliner has been the darling of trendy wine lists for years and has enough traction for most major retailers to stock an example. It comes in several guises. Simple, crisp, lightweight versions major in savoury herbs, pear and white pepper. As the volume is turned up they become rich with aromatics, peach and sweet herbs, often keeping that signature pepperiness. These are powerful wines, in need of food, that will develop in the bottle. Here are three grüners to try.