Drink me

Grüner the bet­ter

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut //Food - Hamish An­der­son

Grape va­ri­eties go in and out of fashion, yet even when en­ter­ing the main­stream some re­tain a sense of cool. Ask a som­me­lier for sauvi­gnon and there will be an internal weary groan; or­der grüner and their in­ter­est in you will be as­sured for the rest of the meal. Grüner velt­liner has been the dar­ling of trendy wine lists for years and has enough trac­tion for most ma­jor re­tail­ers to stock an ex­am­ple. It comes in sev­eral guises. Sim­ple, crisp, light­weight ver­sions ma­jor in savoury herbs, pear and white pep­per. As the vol­ume is turned up they be­come rich with aro­mat­ics, peach and sweet herbs, of­ten keep­ing that sig­na­ture pep­per­i­ness. These are pow­er­ful wines, in need of food, that will de­velop in the bot­tle. Here are three grün­ers to try.

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