Saturday supper club

Claire Thomson tackles some hot potatoes

September is my favourite month of the year: the days still warm, the nights drawing in, a time of harvest and bounty. It’s a month for comforting meals and trusty favourites – not least the baked potato. There is something deeply satisfying about a crisp jacket formed around fluffy innards (Maris Piper is a good variety to choose), the flesh almost combusting within its skin while it bakes in the dry heat of the oven. To achieve this, it’s crucial to

wet the skin of the spud, then oil and salt it decisively all over.

Versatile doesn’t even cover it when considering baked potatoes as a vehicle for delicious toppings. Given that they bake for about 50 minutes (yes, a microwave will do the job, but nothing beats an ovenbaked version; it’s pure alchemy), and are very, very easy in themselves, you can be ambitious with fillings.

There will always be baked beans and grated cheese, of course, but I am sharing three of my favourite topping ideas here and urge you to try them. Time to get your ovens on… Ready, steady, bake!

Porcini and rosemary-roasted onions with pine nuts and Parmesan

Smoked mackerel and horseradish butter with dill and gherkins

Broccoli and leek with Roquefort cheese and walnuts