HOW TO DECODE COFFEE BUZZWORDS

ORGANIC

No synthetic fertilisers or chemicals are used in growing or production, other than those on a permitted list. The beans have been shown to have higher levels of antioxidants especially in lighter roasts. Critics point out that certification standards vary and the lower yields of organically grown crops may mean that more land needs to be cultivated, so any carbon gains are wiped out.

FAIRTRADE

Supporting small farming cooperatives in the developing world, a fair cost-of-production price is paid for goods when the beans are traded, plus a premium which goes towards community projects. There have been some concerns that what’s paid by consumers for Fairtrade products does not all find its way back to the farmers.

RAINFOREST ALLIANCE

This certification focuses on environmental aims, in particular reducing deforestation, so coffee is likely to be shade-grown, which is better for the environment. Critics say that the auditing process is expensive for farmers and there is no guarantee of them getting a better price for their produce. Not all of the product needs to be from an Ra-certified farm for a product to be able to use the logo – in the past it’s been as low as 30 per cent. It’s also criticised for failing to protect farms from price volatility and criteria on forest protection mean that any limitations on deforestation are ‘largely unenforceable’.

SHADE GROWN

Coffee bushes have traditionally thrived in the shade from larger trees, but modern hybrids have been bred to be sun-tolerant, resulting in higher yields and simplification of harvest. However, the biodiversity of coffeegrowing areas has plummeted as deforestation has made way for suntolerant crops. Other negative consequences include increased chemical use (without the trees creating a natural barrier to insects) and more soil erosion, and as soil (a carbon sink) is displaced, increased carbon release. There’s no official certification for shadegrown beans as yet.

NATURAL PROCESS (aka ‘dry process’)

In this traditional method, the ripe coffee ‘cherries’ are spread in the sun to ferment and dry for around a month, before the outside is rubbed off mechanically, leaving the green beans ready for roasting. Drying can be uneven, leading to inconsistencies. Dry process beans tend to make fruity, full-bodied coffee.

PULPED NATURAL PROCESS

(aka honey coffee process)

No honey is actually involved, but the skin of the coffee cherry and outer pulp is removed, while the remaining ‘mucilage’ layer ferments and dries for three to four weeks. Flavours depend on how much mucilage is left on the bean, but tend to be sweet, creamy, caramel and sometimes vinous.

WET PROCESS (aka ‘washed coffee’)

The ripe beans are soaked in water and then the pulp and skin are scrubbed off. The beans are then allowed to ferment in water before drying. This produces a more consistent coffee, but it uses a lot of water so is less sustainable. The coffee tends to have bright flavours, believed to be more true to the origin of the bean.

DIRECT TRADE

There’s no legal definition for this but it’s used for roasters who buy directly from coffee farms and cooperatives. It should mean a fairer price for the farmer and a beneficial relationship for the roaster.