FRANCONIAN BEER BASICS

The Reinheitsgebot The “German beer purity law” stipulates which ingredients brewers can use: malt, hops, yeast and water, although some clarifying and filtering agents are also allowed (as part of the Provisional Beer Law of 1993). The laws for top-fermenting beers (such as ales) are more permissive than those for bottom-fermenting beers (lagers).

The law came into force on April 23 1516 (although other beer laws existed before). It was originally a Bavarian statute, and became part of German law only in the 20th century. Northern Germany has a different beer culture to the southern states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria, where the

is more strictly enforced.

Celebratory dancing, drinking and historic re-enactments will take place this weekend in Ingolstadt, Bavaria, where the law was decreed. Other celebrations – notably a Munich festival in July – will take place throughout the year.

The beers There is impressive variety in Franconia, from classic dark lagers to (smoked beer) and craft-beer interlopers like India Pale Ale. Beer usually comes in half-litre measures and costs €1.80 and €3.50.

Pils Not every brewery makes Pils, but those which do generally do it well. In Bamberg, Keesman and Fässla make excellent versions, but perhaps the best is the lemony-bitter unfiltered Pils made by Elch-Bräu in Thuisbrunn.

Dunkel (dark lager), the traditional drop around here, is found in a variety of shades from reddish to deep brown. Try the fullflavoured brewed at Uetzinger Metzgerbräu in Uetzing.

Ungespundet (unbunged) During fermentation much of the C02 produced is allow to escape, making for a softer, more drinkable beer. The classic version, which is full of gently toasty malt character, with

schwemm, a half-corridor, half-extra room that runs through the centre. These wood-panelled passageways are the crucible of local culture: at Schlenkerla, one of the two Bamberg breweries famous for its smoked beer (the flavour comes from the malt, which is dried over an open flame), I sit and watch as an array of customers – a man with a dog, two teenagers, a group of friends – queue at the hatch for beer served from wooden barrels.

The next morning, I take a coach (the train line is closed; it will reopen in September) to Bad Staffelstein, a town 15 miles north-east of Bamberg, in a district known as Gottesgarten am Obermain (“Eden on the upper Main”). My destination is the Vierzehnheiligen Basilica, which towers over the town a long, dry finish, can be found at Mahr’s in Bamberg.

Rauchbier This smoked beer (the flavour comes from the beechwood-smoked malt used to brew it) is produced in a variety of forms. The Marzen made by Spezial in Bamberg is light and delicately smoky.

Kellerbier Traditionally served in ceramic mugs in

(Franconian for beer gardens) in the summer, this is unfiltered and unpasteurised. Try the St Georgen Bräu’s version at Kachelofen in Bamberg.

India Pale Ale The craft-beer revolution has reached Franconia and breweries now make IPA; an excellent version is available as part of the beer-and-foodmatching at Landgasthof Fiedler in Dietersheim (prices start at €39 for three courses, including beer). It’s an orangepeel and honeyed malt treat brewed by Hofmann in Gutenstetten.

from a hill to the east. Inside, it’s a stucco-marble riot of colour, with a Rococo altar celebrating the 14 Holy Helpers to whom the structure is devoted. I must admit, though, that I prefer the down-to-earth charms of the brewpub next door, Trunk, where I enjoy an excellent, gently toasty dunkel (dark) lager.

Down the hill from Trunk is Uetzinger Metzgerbräu and then, on the way back into Bad Staffelstein, Staffelberg-Bräu. At the former, I fall into conversation with one of the locals who points at a sign in the shop. “What you can’t find here, you don’t need,” it says. That may or may not be true of the shop, I think to myself, but for beer-lovers it sums up Upper Franconia.