Child’s play on a Greek island

Sally Peck went in search of a quintessential Aegean island experience to share with her four-year-old daughter – and the gods smiled on her in Naxos

Zeus was born on Crete. But legend has it that he spent his childhood in Naxos and, perhaps thanks to this divine connection, today when you ask Greeks for their favourite island for families, many point to the largest of the Cyclades: its sandy and abundant beaches are the primary draw, but its good and largely native produce (flocks of sheep and goats are everywhere) also stands out, as does its laid-back vibe – if there’s luxury here, it’s of the barefoot variety.

This island in the South Aegean draws sophisticated families from around Europe but remarkably few British holidaymakers. And yet, this is a terrifically child-focused island, for activity is everywhere: Naxos is large enough (population 20,000) to offer most water and outdoor sports, and small enough that these are never more than a few minutes’ drive away. With my very active daughter Antonia in tow, I went to test this Greek theory.

The Cyclades are notoriously arid and barren, thanks to the strong winds that blow through – making this area an excellent destination for windsurfers and sailors. To take advantage of this – and to see if a four-year-old could grasp the geographical concept of “island” with live visuals – on our first morning we boarded Penelope (actionseaze.com; €80/£67 per person), a small yacht, to spend the day sailing to beaches accessible only from the water. An enthusiastic pre-swimmer, Antonia donned the life jacket provided, grabbed a noodle, and jumped off the back of Penelope, armed with a torch