The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Check in to the Castello of dreams
It’s today’s holy grail: a good night’s sleep. But if you need some help drifting off, there’s a place in Italy that could be the change you’re looking for, says
Istepped into the yellow-hued room to be met by a wonderful view of the rolling hills of Chianti and a fragrant marble tub of geranium, frankincense and sandalwood-infused water strewn with rose petals, which had been prepared by a “bath butler” before my arrival. Slipping into the soothing waters, I felt a deep calm wash over me. This indulgent moment was my first step on a quest for a better night’s sleep as part of the Reconnect sleep programme at Castello del Nero, a former 12thcentury castle surrounded by an undulating landscape carpeted in vineyards and olive groves.
The stresses and strains of a busy London life had increasingly left me unable to get a good night’s rest. An exhausting situation that resulted in constantly feeling rundown and prone to illness – thereby compounding my stress. The turning point came when friends and colleagues began to comment on a change in my formerly bubbly demeanour. I realised then that I needed to make a deliberate effort towards improving my health – starting with my sleeping habits. So when an invitation landed in my in-box to test out the programme at Castello del Nero and meet Susan Harmsworth, the founder and CEO of ESPA and creator of Reconnect, I leapt at the chance.
Susan, a sprightly 72-year-old, opened her first spa in Toronto in 1970 and now boasts more than 600 across 60 countries with an army of 3,000 therapists delivering five million treatments per year. “I was one of the first to introduce the concept of a modern-day spa, which sounds so straightforward now, but back then it was quite revolutionary,” Susan tells me over an aqua minerale on the elegant terrace. With her flawless complexion and youthful vigour, Susan is a great advert for a brand that espouses the benefits of looking after mind, body and spirit. “For me, a spa is about holistic health, wellbeing and relaxation. It’s about working from the inside out,” she added.
Susan, the daughter of a nurse and with a herbalist grandmother, was exposed to both medical and natural remedies throughout her childhood: “It was these early experiences that gave me the vision of combining health and beauty, mind and body, natural and scientific.”
It was five years ago that Susan noticed the negative effect of Activities at Castello del Nero include cookery classes, left, and swimming, below; one of the dishes at the hotel, right; and ESPA founder Susan Harmsworth, below right travelling on her body and specifically on the quality of her sleep. “Sleep disruption has a lot to do with anxiety, the general anxiousness of life. But with just a few tips, you can do a lot to make a big difference.”
She began working with Tej Samani, a cognitive behavioural consultant and professor based in London, which revealed she was processing her daytime activities at night – writing emails and watching television instead of winding down in a warm bath or reading a book. And so, the ESPA sleep programme was born - with the tranquil surrounds of Castello del Nero the perfect launch location.
Step two of my own path to bedtime bliss was a hot stone massage in a darkened room and a gentle scalp massage to help clear the mind, using a similar mix of oils. I returned to my room, a cocoon of blackout curtains and shutters, to a tray of small finger sandwiches and biscuits rich in tryptophan – the amino acid that helps produce the sleep hormone melatonin – as well as a choice of warm flavoured milks. I chose hazelnut – full of magnesium, helping to relax muscles and the mind. Combining tryptophanrich foods with carbohydrates helps speed up the absorption of tryptophan, while the lactose in the milk helps produce melatonin. At Susan’s recommendation, I hopped between my crisply laundered bedsheets and sank my head onto the pillows straight after 8.30pm.
Despite the attempts to soothe my mind, I tossed and turned before finally drifting off to sleep but woke up again after a couple of hours. Eventually I settled down for the night and woke up in the morning after an uninterrupted night’s sleep feeling relaxed and recharged. I couldn’t remember the last time that had happened.
But how to guarantee a good night’s sleep back home in London? Susan went on to give me a number of helpful tips, including ensuring the bedroom temperature is neither too hot or cold and considering the weight of my duvet. Research suggests that heavier blankets could have positive effects on your sleep as it applies a deeper pressure on the body, which has a calming effect, as opposed to light touches which are said to alert the nervous system rather than relax it.
Susan’s own sleep ritual now involves getting seven hours of unbroken sleep by not using any form of technology in the bedroom at least two hours before bed (“we need to learn how to deal with technology for our benefit rather than letting it control us”), taking a bath in Epsom salts and breathing exercises.
The following morning I focused on improving my own breathing at an outdoor yoga class. Afternoons can then be spent doing a range of calming activities, including cookery classes, pottery making and horseriding. Susan also recommends adopting a healthy lifestyle that includes exercise (her own fitness regime features a personal trainer, aqua-riding [cycling on a stationary bike in water], and lake swimming).
The sleep programme at Castello del Nero also offers a healthy “Life in Shape” menu at the hotel’s Michelin-starred La Torre restaurant, which features ingredients said to promote unbroken sleep. These included a Tuscan salad tossed with edible flowers and several spices to help stimulate metabolism, thereby aiding digestion, and linguine pasta made from wholegrain spelt flour, the latter for its magnesium content. Choose from desserts such as a fruit salad served with berry sorbet and blackberry shortbread for a combination of carbohydrates and natural sugars to help keep blood sugar levels balanced and avoid cravings for stimulants, like coffee, tea or alcohol, before bed. Susan is also a great believer in the power of touch for calming the soul and boosting the chances of a great night’s sleep. “The anxiety-driven society we live in has kept us from physically connecting, whether that’s through our relationships, family or friendships,” she added. How can the situation be improved? “I do think if people had better sex and better relationships, they’d be a bit happier. Good sex in a really good relationship is very good for you emotionally, physically and psychologically. And the sex gets better when you’re older – there’s less guilt and stress. It comes with a different kind of freedom,” she added with a cheeky laugh.
Back home in London, I’ve noted that just a few small changes to my nightly routine have made a big difference, including applying a calming body oil just before bed and hitting the pillows 30 minutes earlier than previously. Admittedly, I haven’t managed to stay away from my phone before lights off. But just a little more, better quality sleep a night has made it easier to get out of bed in the morning, leaving me more energised. Most of all, I’ve realised the value of rest and its potential to impact all areas of my life. Lack of sleep and the resulting fatigue can have a domino effect on your health, productivity, relationships, and general zest for life, while getting restful, good-quality sleep postures you to make healthier choices and better decisions in all aspects of your life. It’s a process that’s easier said than done. But I’m working – or rather sleeping – on it.
The Reconnect package, which includes the Sleep Ritual body treatment, facial, use of the spa, breakfast and dinner, costs from £410 per person per night, based on five-night stay in low season. See castellodelnero.com.