The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
The Crazy Rich Asian’s guide to Singapore
Fresh from starring in his recent blockbuster, Chris Pang reveals the highlights of a visit to the island city-state
There’s a reason we chose Singapore to shoot Crazy Rich Asians. There’s an obvious statement for anyone who’s read the book – obviously it’s set there – but Hollywood substitutes locations all the time. Vancouver becomes New York. Parts of the Alabama deserts and hills stand in for California. I even heard that a city in China jumped in when the real Eiffel Tower in Paris wasn’t available. But for us to find Singapore, well, we weren’t really left with any other options.
Situated at the perfect crossroads of east and west, it’s a bustling island metropolis that is no wider than 40 miles (64km) at its widest point, yet still somehow manages to feel larger than life. Economically self-made under the country’s first prime minister Lee Kuan Yew, it attracted growth and stability the likes of which south-east Asia hadn’t seen – and, in some respects, still hasn’t. Singapore today is simply amazing. From the moment you step into the lavishly appointed Changi Airport, to your taxi ride to a downtown hotel (or boutique shophouse inn), it assaults you with colour, energy and character. Not to mention heat. Bring your tank tops and shorts – forgetting that sleeves exist entirely would be your best bet.
If you’re lucky enough to arrive during Christmas or Chinese New Year, take a ride down Orchard Road for the lights and a fantastic summary of Singapore.
You’ll notice the crowds, the neverending bustle, the well-heeled yuppies mixing it up with the no-nonsense aunties and uncles. You’ll notice the tucked-away malls like Far East Plaza, filled with twisting corridors, rubbing shoulders with modern, glamorous steel-and-glass constructions like Ion Orchard. Notice what you don’t sense either – not a single piece of litter on the streets, or aberrant smell in the air – which, for those who live in humid locations know, is a rare thing.
Or you could get right down to business and do as the film’s characters Nick and Rachel do and head right to one of the famous hawker centres for some chicken rice, mee pok (a delicious, local noodle dish), har mee (another delicious, local noodle dish) or char kway teow (another… well, guess.). If those aren’t for you then I’m sure you’ll find something at the Indian stall next door, or the Malay joint across the way, or the halal spot tucked behind or… you get the idea.
Singapore today is simply amazing. It assaults you with colour, energy and character
Singapore is a true multi-culture, and you get to pick the very best from that melting pot. And yes, if you were wondering, the hawker centres are the one place in Singapore that smell – and they smell delicious.
If none of this is for you, then get lost. And I mean that literally – Singapore is so safe, feel free to wander the backstreets and quieter areas and get lost. Pop over to Ann Siang Hill for a meal, or MacRitchie Reservoir for a hike, or to Haji Lane for a piece of furniture you’ll never fit in your luggage. Once suitably disoriented, pop to the nearest MRT station for a 20-minute train ride back to your hotel.
WHAT TO DO
Do not try to compile a list of your top 10 things in Singapore. It’s too hard and too much gets cut out. But, that aside, definitely do visit Marina Bay Sands (marinabaysands. com). Stroll the inside and wonder if you’ve walked into a south-east Asian Las Vegas. Check out the shops, and just when the impulse to buy a £40,000 Hublot watch starts to hit, head outside to the Gardens by the Bay and remember that life isn’t all about stuff.
Definitely check out the Sky Trees at the Gardens, where we filmed our wedding scene for Crazy Rich Asians, which will render whatever real wedding I have later on in life infinitely disappointing to whomever’s involved.
Check out Orchard Road, and then just as soon leave it for the aforementioned Haji Lane, Chinatown, Bugis Street and the like. OK – are the tourists gone? Good. I’m glad you’ve stayed with me. Now actually head over east to Joo Chiat and Katong and check out the local Peranakan Culture. The Peranakan are descendants of ethnic Chinese who migrated to islands in south-east Asia many centuries ago and the culture persists to this day. There’s a row of