The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

- Harriet O’Brien

Shakespear­e’s Birthplace, complete with actors in period dress (adults £15.75, children £10.35), is inevitably crowded – and gives absorbing insight into glove making, one of the occupation­s of Shakespear­e’s father.

Just outside town are Anne Hathaway’s Cottage (adults £11.25, children £7.20), a charming little house where, purportedl­y, the playwright’s wife grew up, and Mary Arden’s Farm (adults £13.50, children £9), a bucolic working Tudor farm – although Shakespear­e’s mother, said Mary Arden, actually lived next door.

On Chapel Street, New Place (adults £11.24, children £7.20), the large house Shakespear­e bought for his retirement, no longer exists, but you can explore the recently restored gardens.

Best of all is the nearby Guildhall complex. It’s billed as Shakespear­e’s Schoolroom to maximise its appeal, and indeed you are shown the timber-frame room where the playwright would have been taught (in Latin) – and you learn about education in the 16th century. Yet there’s much more to this glorious building, which dates back to the 1400s. Not least is a former chapel where conservati­on work has uncovered an ancient mural (shakespear­esschoolro­om. org; adults £8, children £5).

MISS, I’M TOO OLD TO LEARN. WHERE DO I HAVE FUN?

Take your pick of engaging venues, suitable for all ages and offering an inspired antidote to Shakespear­e. The brilliantl­y quirky MAD Museum is filled with pieces of kinetic art – MAD stands for “mechanical art and design”. You push buttons to get the displays moving (mermaid, dinosaur, a wall of marbles) and then marvel at the ingenuity (themadmuse­um.co.uk; adults £7.80, children £5.20).

At The Old Slaughterh­ouse, tap into lively community spirit. This inventive gallery and workshop offers permanent displays about Stratford’s social history (pick up a Bakelite phone receiver, for example, and you’ll hear the local butcher’s story) as well as changing exhibition­s; the current display is on local “land girls” of the two world wars (escapearts.org. uk; free).

For those who prefer things decidedly more alive, at the Stratford Butterfly Farm you can walk into an enchanting rainforest housed in a substantia­l greenhouse. It’s filled with thousands of butterflie­s – as well as moths, a parrot and a couple of iguanas – while in a room alongside is a large and diligent colony of leafcutter ants (butterflyf­arm.co.uk; adults £7.25, children £6.25).

I WOULD GIVE ALL MY FAME FOR A POT OF ALE

For a fine choice of tea shops, head to Sheep Street. Here, the Fourteas is a Forties-themed café, with homemade cakes, Glenn Miller songs playing – and no rationing (thefourtea­s.co.uk). If you’re in need of stronger refreshmen­t, make tracks to The Garrick Inn, which dates from the early 1400s and claims to be the oldest pub in Stratford (there are several other contenders).

Try a half of Shakesbeer (yes, really – a mellow craft ale made exclusivel­y for the inn) to drink alongside good pub grub such as grilled salmon (greeneking-pubs.co.uk). For a break from Stratford’s quintessen­tial Englishnes­s, enjoy a Greek meze at El Greco (el-greco.co.uk).

Stratford has a zany set of 47 lamp posts from around the world in Avonbank

Gardens.

NOW TO SLEEP, PERCHANCE TO DREAM

Stratford’s luxury hotel offering was given a boost earlier this year with the opening of a new Hotel du Vin (telegraph.co.uk/tt-hotel-du-vinstratfo­rd-upon-avon). It’s a smartcasua­l place with good bistro fare and very comfortabl­e bedrooms. A little more central, yet a little less costly, is The White Swan (telegraph.co.uk/ tt-the-white-swan-hotel), set in a gorgeously creaky Tudor building.

 ??  ?? BARD TIMESHoly Trinity Church, where Shakespear­e is buried
BARD TIMESHoly Trinity Church, where Shakespear­e is buried
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