DOG-SLED­DING

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Ex­pen­sive – an hour is €63 (£55) for an adult, €45

fact an an­cient sa­loir – the pre­elec­tric­ity in­car­na­tion of a fridge, which would have been filled with salt to pre­serve food.

In the tiny vil­lage of Mon­tigny-lèsAr­sures, I vis­ited Do­maine An­dré et Mireille Tis­sot, where Béné­dicte and Stéphane (the next gen­er­a­tion) make a Jura spe­cial­ity: vin jaune, wine from the lo­cal white grape, sav­agnin, aged in a bar­rel un­der a cov­er­ing of nat­u­rally oc­cur­ring yeast known here as a voile, or veil. It’s a sim­i­lar process to sherry and, in fact, the wines have a sherry tang to them, as well as a de­li­cious nut­ti­ness. Stéphane’s win­ery isn’t set up for tourism, but he has a ded­i­cated shop in Ar­bois, the pic­turesque vil­lage where Louis Pas­teur ex­per­i­mented with pas­teuri­sa­tion and fer­men­ta­tion at his river­side house (now a mu­seum) and in his vine­yards nearby.

We passed through

Ar­bois sev­eral times, partly be­cause of Aux Délices du Palais, a su­perb butcher and deli, and partly be­cause I wanted to visit Les Jardins de St Vin­cent, a muchrec­om­mended wine shop that re­mained stub­bornly shut no mat­ter what day or time I vis­ited.

On our last day, even I wanted to ski, to stop for a crêpe at Le Flo­con, a great café on the slopes, and to take ad­van­tage of the ho­tel spa one last time. Tech­ni­cally, chil­dren aren’t

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