OFF THE MAP

Founded by the Etruscans, the hilltop village of Fiesole lies some three miles (5km) north of the centre (bus no 7 from the train station). It is a pleasant, cool escape from the crowds with a Roman amphitheatre and archaeological museum (combined ticket €12, museidifiesole.it), some quaint shops, a pretty piazza with cafés for coffee or lunch, and fabulous views.