JONATHAN BASTABLE

WIn a world where space and solitude are almost impossible to find, the Kimberley is a kind of wild, empty miracle. This northwestern corner of Australia is three times the size of England, but has a total population about the same as Bexhill-on-Sea’s. There are vast tracts of territory without a road or a village or any sign of human habitation. You might find yourself standing alone on the smooth lip of a vertiginous waterfall; or wandering among the stripy beehive domes of the Bungle Bungle, a geological oddity as striking, in its way, as Uluru; or sitting awestruck in the presence of some of the oldest rock art in the world, vivid dancing figures painted by people who inhabited this terrain 15,000 years ago.

The Kimberley can be explored by sea, land or air. APT offers a coastal cruise that sets out from Broome and includes excursions inland. This year, the same operator introduces a 4x4 expedition that takes in spectacular sites such as the Purnululu National Park. But a helicopter safari is perhaps still the best way to see the region. The starting point is Kununurra, an internal flight away from Perth or – beginning in May 2020 – from

‘Sit awestruck in the presence of some of the oldest rock art in the world’

see the Chao Phraya river and the Jean-Michel Gathy-designed Four Seasons, a glittering high-rise with interconnecting courtyards, sky gardens, dramatic water features and a divine spa. Just down water is the modernist low-rise Capella, which counts 101 rooms (including 12 riverside villas with private gardens, pools and gondolas) and a restaurant from multi-award-winning ItalianArgentinian chef Mauro Colagreco.

With so much competition, the Mandarin Oriental, the city’s grande dame, has pulled out all the stops to ensure it retains the title of Bangkok’s

Melbourne. From on high, the mangal swamps lining the rivers form patterns like mossy green fractals. Saltwater crocodiles – “salties” as they are known – bask in the shallows. Some of these predators have been around so long that the chopper pilots know them by name: “the Gatekeeper”, “Godzilla” or “Mangrove Jack”.

Hotels in the Kimberley are few, and literally far between, but some of them are magnificent. El Questro, for example, is world class, an isolated hyperluxe hacienda on the banks of the Chamberlain river. The coastal Berkeley River Lodge consists of sumptuous tented cabins moored like yachts in the rolling dunes. You can sit on your veranda and gaze at the water – but you can’t go in for a swim because those breaking waves provide cover for salties. The ocean here is deadly as well as beautiful, and that fact somehow makes a sunset over the Timor Sea all the more magical.

How to go Qantas flies direct to Perth from London. HeliSpirit (helispirit. com.au) offers five-day helicopter safaris for AU$18,850 (£10,000) per person. APT’s eight-day 4WD expedition starts at £2,795 per person, while the 10-day coastal cruise starts at £6,295 (aptouring.co.uk).

Writer Jonathan Bastable is a lifelong Russia specialist, but Australia is his favourite travel destination. “I just think it’s the most fabulous country in the world.” premier hotel, with a multi-millionpound refurbishment of the river wing, restaurants, and that wonderful waterside terrace and swimming pool. How to go Scott Dunn (020 3993 5593; scottdunn.com) has an 11-night Thailand trip visiting Bangkok, Khao Sok National Park and Koh Lanta from £2,900, including flights, private transfers and five-star accommodation.

Lee Cobaj is travel writer who formerly lived in Thailand and is now based in Hong Kong.