MARK C O’FLAHERTY

W2020 is a blockbuster year for this sunny, unincorporated territory of the US. It is the 500th anniversary of its capital San Juan, while theatrical iconoclast Ivo van Hove is bringing West Side Story back to Broadway at the same time as Spielberg is rebooting it for the big screen. As the song from that musical begins: “Puerto Rico, you lovely island, island of tropical breezes, always the pineapples growing, always the coffee blossom blowing.”

When Hurricane Maria settled on Puerto Rico in autumn 2017, it looked like the end of days for one of the most spirited and underappreciated parts of the Caribbean. But after a Herculean local effort, it’s largely back on its feet. Its beach towns and offshore islands are as beautiful as ever. The birthday boy, San Juan, is the best place to start – the steep streets full of candycoloured buildings in the Old Town are some of the most photogenic in the Caribbean, while the sounds of reggaeton emanate from every other passing car. There are great dive bars and designer outlets and a strip of mega resorts that stretch along Condado beach just outside the city, each serving its own version of the local treasure – the piña colada.

Beaches are as big a draw here as anywhere else in the Caribbean – to the west of the city is Dorado, which is as beautiful as any in Antigua or St Lucia. Better still are the largely deserted beaches of Vieques – a tiny island reachable by ferry or puddle jumper flight, with a bohemian vibe, world-class dining and a bioluminescent bay that glows like a Disney cartoon as you kayak through it. Back on the main island, the tropical rainforest of El Yunque remains a must for all visitors. There are currently plans to create a direct road link between the forest and the coast, via the towns of Luquillo and Fajardo. Key dates for 2020: the San Sebastián Street Festival on Jan 15 and the Afro Nation music festival on March 18.

How to go American Airlines flies from London to San Juan via Miami from £840 return (aa.com). Rooms at The Gallery Inn in the old town of San Juan are from £120 per night, not including breakfast (thegalleryinn.com)

Mark C O’Flaherty is a design and travel writer and photographer who will drink piña coladas anywhere, at any time.