ST VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

WEMMA O’KELLY

Reggae beats on Bequia, perfect picket fences on Mustique, the glowering volcanic presence of St Vincent – the 32 islands that make up St Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) are a rich mix. A long-kept secret among yachties who for years have glided from one island to another other across shimmering waters, unfussed by the region’s not-quitefive-star charms, the archipelago is finally opening up to those who like their luxuries fully grounded.

Among them is French designer Philippe Starck, who for two years propped up Basil’s Bar on Mustique, revamping and reopening it this year. Nearby on tiny Mayreau (accessible only by boat), a rash of new villas with their own docks and a $5 million beach is breaking ground; while the Plantation Hotel brings a buzz to laid-back Bequia, where nine cabanas set on a private beach up the ante without altering the amicable status quo between locals and tourists.

Of all the islands, Canouan looks set to hit the headlines in 2020. Last year, Mandarin Oriental opened its first resort on its eastern shore. Open so far: 14 villas with infinity pools, Jacuzzis and golf carts (another dozen will join them soon), a restaurant, a spa, and the beach club is the buzziest spot on the island. And next year, cool newcomers will start drawing in a fresh crowd. Aman Hotels is said to be joining the fray in 2020, while Soho House is putting down roots in the former Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club. A new runway (the Caribbean’s longest) and marina with deep-anchor berths has made this the most accessible Grenadine island for those with superyachts and private jets.

Canouan is the Amerindian word for turtle – a moniker that could apply to any of the islands. Hawksbills swim freely in the crystal blue waters; tortoises and iguanas lounge in the mangroves; hummingbirds flit among the frangipani flowers. Nature rules, especially at Tobago Cays, a clutch of five uninhabited islands and a protected marine park, where coral reefs teem with clown fish, moray eels and manta rays, largely undisturbed – for now – by the building work above the waves. How to go Fly to Barbados; then chartered flights to Canouan take about 45 minutes ( grenadine-air. com; discoversvg. com). Rent villas through thegrenadines collection.com and grenadine

-escape.com.

Emma O’Kelly writes about luxury, design and art, and escapes to SVG for some fullblown R&R whenever she gets the chance.

NOT FAR FROM THE SHALLOWS The beach bar at Mandarin Oriental, Canouan; left, puffins in the Farne Islands