The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
A Scilly idea: how to walk on water in the idyllic Isles
Penny Walker enjoys a rare and delightful hop from Tresco to Bryher armed with a Bakewell tart and a gin and tonic
Sand squelched between my toes like mud – a smooth, soft texture that indicated that this part of the seabed was not usually exposed to the open air. As I narrowly avoided standing on a decorator crab, adorned with seaweed to hide it from predators, and, on this occasion, clumsy humans, I regretted the decision to go barefoot on this strange jaunt across the bay.
Around me, couples were wading through tidal pools, dogs were being shouted at for chewing seaweed – and during one rather gruesome incident, a crab – and children were skipping across the boggy sand, splashing through salty puddles and squealing in delight. We were all heading for the same sandbar in the middle of two of the Isles of Scilly’s best loved islands – Tresco and Bryher – and it was a rather idyllic scene.
In the early September sunshine, we passed marooned boats which, just hours before, had been floating on the Channel, and delighted in the unique nature of the event. Scilly, with its picturesque shores, is renowned as a popular island-hopping destination, but it’s a rare treat to do it on foot – even if that foot is a bit sludgy by the time you make it across. The Low Tide Festival is “the UK’s ultimate pop up festival,” according to Tom Matthews, part of the Tresco team behind the idea. As I stood on a sandbar that doesn’t normally see the light of day with a Tresco Abbey Garden gin and tonic in one hand and a freshly baked Bakewell tart in the other, I was rather inclined to agree with him.
Locals and visitors alike milled around on the sand, flitting from stand to stand to see what this year had to offer in the form of food and drink, while on the stage (a flat-backed trailer pulled out by a tractor), the Fabulous 59 Ford began to play their own brand of Fifties rock’n’roll.
Those in the know had dashed across early and were already tucking into their freshly cooked crab roll from Bryher’s Island Fish, while the snaking queue grew ever longer for the less clued-up.
“The Low Tide Event was something of a hare-brained scheme we dreamt it up,” Matthews laughs. “We did it somewhat mockingly. But it was also intended to celebrate the close relationship that these two islands, and indeed, all of the islands here have.”
It’s not a very old festival – the first was trialled in 2015 – but it is an increasingly popular one. And while there are normally only two, or at most three events a year, 2020 marks the first time that the tides are fortuitous enough to permit four festival dates in a season (Apr 10, May 8, Aug 21 and Sep 20).
“It should be a great year for us,” Matthews tells me. “We’re finding that more and more people are planning their visit to the Isles of Scilly around the event, so it’s great to have more dates on offer. The first of 2020 even falls on Good Friday – as good an excuse to eat fish as I’ve ever heard.”
Part of the beauty of the festival is that it’s transient. The vast tidal range not only makes the event unique, but
it also provides an element of surprise. “The sandbar moves every time,” says Matthews. “We just have to wait until the water level drops – normally to at least 0.5 metres [20in] – before we know exactly where we’ll be. But people get the hang of it. They just head for the tractor.”
The opposite can be said of the return journey. “We had to start using a klaxon. People were having such a good time that they didn’t notice the tide beginning to rise again.” So now the blaring of the horn declares when it’s time to wade back to shore – before you have to swim for it.
The event normally lasts at least an hour and on my visit, many people were just standing around, breathing it all in. “I’m stopping in on my way across from Tresco,” Charlie from Devon told me. She had mislaid her husband and had decided that the most logical place to wait was by the Sand Bar. “It’s a great way to get from island to island for free – and not many
The sandbar, above left; Fabulous 59 Ford, above right; Tresco’s Sea Garden Cottages, left; Tresco Abbey Garden Gin, below people can say they’ve done it!” Husband predictably located, she wandered off towards Bryher.
Dotted with honesty boxes, pretty Bryher is packed full of local produce – from potted plants and fresh fruit to Veronica Farm fudge (veronicafarm fudge.co.uk). It’s a spirit that the festival is trying to emulate. “We’re trying to include produce from every island. Even Troytown Farm ice cream from little St Agnes,” says Matthews.
It’s also educational, with representatives from the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust (ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk) in attendance, armed with empty tubs to serve as temporary homes for a variety of sea creatures. Children and adults alike watched eagerly as each species was expertly plucked from the water and its habitat recounted.
As the klaxon sounded, people made their choice between Tresco and Bryher, tottering happily back to dry land with a G&T in hand and a new experience to savour.
GETTING THERE
2020 marks the launch of the first helicopter service direct to Tresco from Penzance (March 17; 01604 817115; penzance helicopters. co.uk).
You can also fly to St Mary’s from Land’s
End, and Newquay (year round) or from Exeter (MarNov) with Skybus (01736 334220; isles ofscilly-travel. co.uk). For a slower pace, hop aboard the Scillonian ferry from Penzance to St Mary’s (Mar-Oct; 01736 334220; isles ofscilly-travel. co.uk).
Essentials
STAYING THERE
The most obvious choice for the Low Tide Festival is to stay on either Tresco or Bryher, giving you convenient access to the festivities.
If you opt for Bryher, it’s hard to beat relaxed Hell Bay with its stunning views, delicious seafood and outdoor pool (from £135 per night; telegraph. co.uk/tt-hellbay).
Tresco is a privately owned island, making the options here predominantly self-catering. The pretty Sea Garden Cottages and apartments come in configurations that sleep between two and 10 (from £1,130 per week for a large cottage; tresco. co.uk).
SEE THE LIGHT, BELFAST
Titanic passed the Blackhead Lighthouse, built in 1902 beside Belfast Loch, which features as one of four lighthouses in a new series of short films from contemporary filmmakers commissioned by Great Lighthouses of Ireland (greatlighthouses.com). The Irish Landmark Trust has three restored keepers’ houses beside the lighthouse, so you can make a night of it.
Blackhead Cutter costs from £320 for two nights and sleeps four (00 353 1670 4733; irishlandmark.com).
UNDERNEATH THE ARCHES, LONDON
Illuminated River aims to dazzle the capital in 2020 by lighting up the Thames bridges – 15 will be lit by the end of the project. Artist Leo Villareal and architecture firm Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands illuminated the first four last summer, with five more (from Waterloo to Blackfriars) to be switched on this year. Events include mudlarking, kayaking, walking tours and Thames Clipper tours.
Autumn 2020. Boat tours from £7.50 for adults (020 7647 2778; illuminatedriver.london). site of St Edmund’s relics. The year’s events all year lead up to St Edmund’s Day on Nov 20.
Various dates. Abbey admission free (abbeyofstedmund1000.co.uk; english-heritage.org.uk; burystedmundsandbeyond.co.uk).
CROWNING GLORY, LEICESTERSHIRE
After hosting the cast and crew for series three of The Crown, Belvoir Castle is offering Crown-inspired Champagne afternoon teas in the State Dining Room, with accompanying castle tours for Mother’s Day (Mar 20) and Afternoon Tea Week (Aug 10-16), including locations not normally open to the public.
Tea and tour £70. Castle: stay price available on application (01476 871001; staywithus@belvoircastle. com; belvoircastle.com).
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, DOCTOR! BEDFORDSHIRE
2020 marks a century since the birth of gimlet-eyed Doctor Who star Patrick Troughton, who played the Second Doctor from 1966-69. Celebrate with fellow Whovians at the
Utopia fan convention – held at Wyboston Lakes Resort, set beside a lake and golf course in Bedfordshire. Book soon, as it often sells out by April.
June 12-14. From £79 per person (fantomevents.co. uk/utopia-2020).
WATCHER IN THE RYE, EAST SUSSEX
Rye Harbour Nature Reserve, home to 200 rare species of wildlife, celebrates its 50th birthday this year by opening a new Discovery Centre with community garden and café. Join a five-mile
50th Anniversary Walk around the reserve on Sunday March 15, with a stop in the Halpin bird hide (don’t forget your lunch). The Old Vicarage Rye Harbour B&B offers packed lunches, binoculars, maps and bikes on loan.
Doubles at the Old Vicarage from £95, seven nights self-catering from £435 (01797 222088; oldvicarageryeharbour.co.uk).
STARS OF SEA AND SKY, LULWORTH
New three-night weekend breaks at the Lulworth Estate on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast feature a three-hour coasteering trip and a night walk to famous Lulworth Cove to see the Milky Way (late spring/early summer is the best time of year to see it). You can stay in one of the estate properties, the largest of which sleeps up to 18 people.
Weekends May 2-June 27. Three nights from £205 per person (01929 400888; lulworth.com); activities are weather-dependent.
DOGGED DETERMINATION, GOODWOOD, CHICHESTER
Goodwood, the country estate famous for racing cars and horses, stages its first “Goodwoof ” this late May Bank Holiday. Take your dog along to see canine stars, including Crufts winners, as well as specialists and trainers. Better still, enter your pooch for the agility and flyball events. Dogs are welcome at the hotel.
May 24-25. Adults (over 21) £19.50; age 13-21 £9.75; under-12s free; free parking. A double room (up to two dogs) is available at the Goodwood Hotel from £365 (May 23-25), including show tickets and breakfast (01243 755055; goodwood.com).
FINDING YOUR LEVEL, SOMERSET
BBC wildlife expert Mike Dilger is leading his first three-night spring