The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel

Portugal’s pink palace with a pedigree

- Mary Lussiana

Palacio Principe Real, a pink 19th-century palace surrounded by leafy gardens of jacaranda and lemon trees and inset with a swimming pool, is poised to be the new go-to hotel for visitors to Lisbon. It has 28 bedrooms, many indulgentl­y large with free-standing bathtubs, within beautifull­y restored interiors.

LOCATION 10/10

Right in the heart of one of Lisbon’s loveliest districts, where faded palaces mix with buzzing restaurant­s and concept stores overlook palm-filled parks. The botanical gardens are just at the top of the road; in the other direction lies the not-to-be-missed Igreja de Sao Roque, with its ornate interiors. The magnificen­t Praca do Comercio, which opens out on to the waterfront, is a 20-minute stroll through Chiado. Lisbon airport is a 20-minute drive away.

STYLE AND CHARACTER 9/10 A passion project from British owners Miles and Gail Curley, who came to Lisbon and fell in love with the Palacio. The 19th-century interiors have been immaculate­ly restored by Gail, whose attention to detail gleams from every corner. She has preserved the spirit of a Portuguese palace by keeping its ancient blue and white tiles and Moorish stucco work, overlaying it all with uplifting colours, bath tubs from Drummonds, locally sourced candles and Dyson hairdryers.

SERVICE AND FACILITIES 8/10

The personal approach means that whether you want to horse ride along a beach at sunset or taste wines, most things can be organised. There is a spa with two treatment rooms offering massages and facials, yoga (mats are provided in rooms) in the mornings, and a heated swimming pool in the garden. Service is friendly and efficient.

ROOMS 9/10

All different, some with showers; others with free-standing tubs. Some have terraces and some balconies but all have a view over the wonderful gardens. Beds are clad in crisp cottons. Bathrooms in local limestone come with heated floors and Byredo amenities. There are Nespresso machines, scented candles to illuminate your bath time and compliment­ary mini bars with health shots (try the ginger) and, what always seems to be missing from hotels, fresh milk for your morning coffee.

FOOD AND DRINK 8/10

When I visited in the soft-opening phase, meals were on request only. But there are plans to serve well done, simple food drawing on the best ingredient­s that Portugal has, from the smoked hams of the Alentejo to local cheeses and the freshest catch of the day from the market. Breakfast is à la carte with options such as avocado toast and poached eggs, and on a sunny day it is served in the garden accompanie­d by bold bird song. The Duck Bar, named after the hotel logo of an Indian runner duck, serves a range of Portuguese wines.

VALUE FOR MONEY 8/10

Doubles from €295 (£263), including breakfast. Free Wi-Fi.

ACCESS FOR GUESTS WITH DISABILITI­ES?

There is one room that is suitable for wheelchair users.

FAMILY-FRIENDLY? No children under 14.

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