The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Saddle up for a whole new take on the planet
A new ‘Ride: Cycle the World’ guide offers plenty of inspiration for journeys from Western Australia to the US, as these extracts reveal
Whether you’re an experienced road cyclist or planning your first bikepacking trip, exploring the world by bike is pure freedom – nothing beats the feeling of jumping in the saddle and heading off to discover diverse landscapes and new cultures, all completely under your own steam. And as the world begins to reopen – with an escape from our living rooms finally in sight – these cycling routes in some of the world’s most beautiful spots could provide the perfect cabin-fever antidote.
NORTH AMERICA Champlain Triangle: Brandon, US
The broad, bucolic Champlain Valley, a swathe of somnolent farm belt stretching between the Green Mountains to the east and New York State’s Adirondacks to the west, is quintessential New England: fertile, picturesque and positively aflame in autumn, when maples carpeting its hillsides blaze crimson and gold.
It’s also a dream for cyclists: Vermont hosts the second-smallest population of any US state, and its gently undulating back roads are suitably quiet, punctuated by friendly villages where a selection of historical inns offer toothsome hospitality.
To cherry-pick the area’s highlights – the photogenic bridges, the perky market towns, the waterfalls and glittering Lake Champlain – opt for a roughly triangular tour through Addison County.
Pedal away from the Victorian clapboard houses of Brandon and roll north through leafy landscapes towards the historic towns of Middlebury and Vergennes, before pootling south to the bijou picket-fence burg of Shoreham alongside the shoreline of Lake Champlain. From there, it’s a pleasantly meandering ride east back to Brandon or – if you’ve been entranced by New England’s charm – simply choose another maple-lined road and keep going.
EUROPE
Fortified villages of Saxon Transylvania: Sighisoara to Viscri,
Romania
You’re likely to see more horse-drawn carts than cars on this wonderfully varied route between Sighisoara, Transylvania’s jewel in the crown, and the Unesco village of Viscri. The ride starts on tarmac, but that quickly gives way to gravel, and then dirt in the beech and oak forests that follow the high contours of the countryside – they’re home to Europe’s largest population of brown bears, and a few wolves, too.
Wildflower meadows of bright yellows and pinks usher you into the village of Mesendorf, which makes a great stop for a local lunch. As you climb back up into the hills afterwards, keep an eye out for a sheepfold – there, if you’re lucky, hospitable shepherds might treat you to a dessert of fresh cheese.
It’s largely downhill from this point, so sit back and make the most of the easy descent through yet more idyllic meadows to Viscri.
As you celebrate your arrival with a beer on the village high street, watch the communal herd of cattle return from their day on the pastures, peeling off into their owners’ gates in a daily ritual that’s been going on for 800 years.
CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA
Costa Rica highland fling: Los Ángeles de Tilarán to Muelle San Carlos,
Costa Rica
“Pura vida!” (pure life) is a perfect encapsulation of what this wonderful pocket gem delivers in spades: clean air, boundless energy and a panoply of spectacular wildlife.
For the best views on offer, follow the good, albeit rather undulating, road that traces Lake Arenal’s northern shore. Pick up the trail at the western end, and prepare for climbs: the route doesn’t stick to the water’s edge but rises and falls as it skirts the adjacent hills, regularly dipping into clumps of rainforest.
Reaching the eastern end of the lake, you’ll then cross the dam that created this handsome reservoir; it makes a prime viewing point for admiring Arenal Volcano ahead (cloud cover permitting). Just beyond this peak lies the lively town of La Fortuna, where there’s a chance to enjoy some R&R before you embark on the final leg of your journey to Muelle San Carlos.
The lush Costa Rican countryside undergoes a distinct change in character from here, with haphazard rainforest replaced by a more orderly assortment of sugar-cane, banana and pineapple plantations. But there’s still one last memorable wildlife sighting in store for you – waiting to welcome you into the small town of Muelle San Carlos are huge iguanas on the banks of the river.
Rwanda is a cyclist’s paradise, with endless red dirt roads and smooth tarmac to explore, and – as implied by its nickname, the “Land of a thousand hills” – no shortage of climbs to test even the most accomplished riders. But the verdant, volcanic backdrop to this ride marks it out as one of the most special in the country, and perhaps in all of Africa. It’s also largely downhill, making it accessible to all levels of cyclist, following a route that rises gently from Ruhengeri – a spartan frontier town that’s the gateway to Volcanoes National Park – before an exhilarating final descent into Gisenyi, beside Lake Kivu.
The ride begins with a short stretch on tarmac towards Mount Muha Bura. This peak and its neighbouring volcanoes form the border with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, and are home to some of the last remaining mountain gorillas on the planet. Keep an eye out here for members of the Rwandan national cycling team on training rides – their headquarters are nearby, just south of Kinigi. Keep looking up from your handlebars – the views around almost every corner are scintillating, stretching south over Rwanda’s green patchwork of hills.
ASIA
Tien Shan mountains: Bishkek,
Kyrgyzstan
Tien Shan translates as “Mountains of Heaven”, and you will soon appreciate why the range was so named on this circular ride from the Krygyz capital of
Bishkek. Embarking on a loop of staggering mountain passes, glittering turquoise lakes and fertile alpine valleys, you’ll experience soaring altitudes and divine views that will leave you breathless in more ways than one.
Much of the route is above 3,000m (9,843ft), and some of the “roads” have fallen into such disrepair that several of the passes can only be conquered on two wheels. This remoteness makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a different world – and from the yurts, horses and eagles that you’ll see en route, it’s clear that this is the world of the nomads. Follow their lead on the ancient trails, camping under starry skies or staying in a yurt where you’ll be treated like one of the family.
AUSTRALASIA Rottnest Island: The Settlement,
Rottnest Island, Australia
Although it lies just 20km (12 miles) offshore from Perth, Rottnest Island – or “Rotto” – feels a world away from the city. The ride starts by the ferry terminal at the Settlement, a quaint hamlet in Thomson Bay. The sun may be strong, but the beauty of an island ride is that there are plenty of beaches where you can cool off with a refreshing dip. Parker Point is a particularly good snorkelling spot – rainbow coloured moon-wrasse fish among the seagrass and pinky-purple cauliflower coral. Other coastal highlights include Wadjemup Lighthouse, with a 360-degree view that stretches all the way to Perth, and Cathedral Rocks, where you can watch New Zealand fur seals practising their “yoga”.
The final stretch takes you past several inland lakes near Geordie Bay. You might wonder at this point if the heat is causing you to hallucinate, but fear not – their pink colour and windwhipped foam edges are a result of their high salt content. Thankfully, it’s not too much further from here to the Settlement, and time for a well-earned drink in the shade.