The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Spain Those long, lazy beach days are finally within reach
At last Spain’s mainland resorts and islands can start to welcome British visitors – and Annie Bennett can’t wait to get back
Ihave a little list – well actually rather a long list – of beaches I can’t wait to return to, whether on mainland Spain, the Balearics or the Canaries. While I’ll be lucky to make it to a handful at most this summer, it doesn’t matter as some are more appealing in autumn with fewer people – and warm rather than scorching weather suits a lot of us just fine – while others are at their wild best in winter.
With around 5,000 miles of coastline, featuring all permutations from tiny coves to seaside towns and full-on resorts, it is no wonder so many people are dreaming of getting back to their favourite holiday spots in Spain and its islands. In my many idle moments, I’m thinking about all those tempting beach bars – literally thousands of them – where I could be whiling away the afternoon with an endless supply of cold beers without a care in the world.
Spain has been gradually easing itself out of its restrictions, but rules vary from region to region so it is important to check the situation for your destination. Depending on when and where you go, you might find numbers are limited in restaurants or on beaches, for example. While masks are no longer obligatory outdoors, a lot of Spanish people are choosing to keep wearing them, at least where there are crowds. Those long, lazy beach days that we have been yearning for are finally within reach and at this stage observing a few rules and thinking of others seem perfectly reasonable to me.
The word costas might make you think of package holidays in big resorts – and there’s certainly nothing wrong with that – but it’s only one part of the story. While I am always up for a break in Benidorm on the Costa Blanca, which has gone above and beyond to make the destination as low risk as possible since the beginning of this situation, I would drag myself away from the beach to hike in the hills and try some of the excellent restaurants in the surrounding area too.
On the Costa Brava, gorgeous seaside towns such as Cadaques, Llafranc and Palafrugell provide that hit of Mediterranean happiness we have been craving. Lloret de Mar has been really proactive with its anti-Covid measures and is worth considering as a base if you haven’t been there for decades. This enforced break has given a lot of established destinations a chance to reset and relaunch and many of those tired old beach hotels now have a fresh, contemporary look, while exciting new ones are now opening their doors too.
This is clearly the case on the Costa del Sol, where the Ikos Andalusia (ikosresorts.com/resorts/ikos-andalusia), between Estepona and Marbella, is an all-inclusive hotel that encourages guests to get out and explore Andalucia in the Minis that come as part of the deal. There is finally a boutique hotel in the centre of Estepona too, the Pilar Andalucía (hoteles-silken.com/en/ hotel-el-pilar-andalucia-estepona),
Market forces: Santanyí, in north east Mallorca, is in the spotlight after the launch of a stylish new hotel
People-free zone: Papagayo beach on Lanzarote which wouldn’t be a bad idea at all for a long weekend in the autumn.
The Costa de la Luz on the Atlantic, with its superb seafood and never-ending beaches, such as Valdevaqueros, Bolonia and El Palmar, is my idea of heaven. A plate of prawns, a few glistening slices of almadraba tuna, a glass of fino, some fiesta or other going on – that says summer in Spain to me.
THE BALEARIC ISLANDS
Even if the clubs don’t manage to be fully up and running this summer, the lure of Ibiza is so strong that the island’s many fans are already flocking back to the beach bars and rural hotels hidden away in the interior. New openings include the rather cool Oku Ibiza (okuhotels.com/oku-ibiza) in Cala Gració just outside San Antonio, and the gorgeous Petunia (petuniaibiza.com), near Cala d’Hort, which has a stonking view of the magical Es Vedrà islet and is offering a 25 per cent discount on stays of more than a week. Of course, you have to nip over to Formentera for a bit of bohemian bliss and some of the best beaches in the Balearics. The new Casa Pacha (casapacha.com) is the place to be seen this summer, by the way, if you’re into that sort of thing.
In Mallorca, I’m looking this year towards the south east corner around the little town of Santanyí, which is in the spotlight following the opening of Can Ferrereta (hotelcanferrereta.com), a 17th-century mansion that is now a haven of neutral calm with museumstandard artworks.
Closer to Palma, the Sa Torre on a 14th-century estate has just reopened as the Zoëtry Majorca (zoetrymallorca. com), while in the Mallorcan capital itself, the stylish Concepció by Nobis (concepciobynobis.com) occupies a former soap factory and has an opening offer of a 15 per cent discount.
With Hauser & Wirth’s (hauserwirth. com) art gallery opening in mid July on an island in Mahón harbour, Menorca is upping its game as a cultural as well as a sustainable destination. The new Cristine Bedfor town house hotel (cristinebedforhotel.com) in Mahón sums up the quiet elegance of the island, while the Palladium Menorca (palladiumhotelgroup.com) on the north east coast overlooking Arenal d’en Castell beach is a smart family option.
THE CANARY ISLANDS
If you can’t face trying to keep up with the ever-changing travel situation this summer – and who can, frankly – just sit back and think about a winter sun holiday in the Canaries instead. The islands are wonderful in July and August too, don’t get me wrong, but are looking particularly attractive to me from October onwards when, with a bit of luck, things will be looking a lot more positive and the dreaded amber list will be a distant memory.
All the islands are great for hiking, whether through volcanic landscapes or subtropical forests. I’m seriously thinking of walking the length of Lanzarote over a week at the end of November, on a trip organised by Lanzarote Retreats (lanzaroteretreats.com), who also still have summer availability in their range of accommodation options from yurts and pods to luxury villas, with no deposit to pay.
The Canary Islands might not immediately spring to mind for a city break, but Santa Cruz and La Laguna in Tenerife and Las Palmas in Gran Canaria both have excellent cultural and gastronomic scenes and you can still spend as much time as you like on the beach – surfing, kayaking, diving or just doing nothing. On tiny La Palma, you can mooch around the pretty capital, which is also called Santa Cruz, by day and go stargazing at night. It is hardly surprising that people who can work anywhere are increasingly choosing one of the Canaries as a base for a couple of months. Sounds appealing, doesn’t it?
The Canary Islands are looking particularly attractive to me from October onwards