SEE ANOTHER SIDE OF SRI LANKA

Sri Lanka is bewitching – something to do with the intoxicating smells of smoky coconut oil and aromatic spices that fill the air, the boundless warmth of the people and the dramatic beauty of its landscape. It is exotic yet accessible, with a well-trodden travellers’ path from capital city Colombo via the cultural highlights to the south west’s sandy bays.

But the lesser-visited parts of the island, on the east coast, also hold allure. Make a beeline for Trincomalee, where the historic naval fort sits alongside colourful temples. Two hours south is the beach hangout of Pasikuda and the gorgeous tented suites of Karpaha Sands (00 94 7036 62018; karpahasands.com), which are ideal for families.

From here, venture past the lagoon city of Batticaloa, through rural villages to Gal Oya National Park and stay

Shrine time: start at Colombo’s temples, then head to the east coast at the charming Gal Oya Lodge (00 94 6349 29148; galoyalodge.com). Then head to cheery surf town Arugam Bay, where the Jetwing Surf (00 94 6320 30300; jetwing hotels.com/ jetwingsurf) is a few steps from the boho beach shacks that line

the shore.

YOU’LL NEVER FORGET A whale-watching trip off the coast of Trincomalee and Nilaveli: the boat heads about half an hour out into the choppy Bay of Bengal for the best chance to spot sperm whales, blue whales and spinner dolphins.

Scott Dunn (020 8682 5080; scottdunn. com) offers a 13-night Epic Sri Lanka itinerary from £3,100pp based on two people travelling, including breakfast, flights and transfers.