Why Dubai deserves its place among the world’s greatest cities

Dubai has its detractors. It has no culture, people say. No soul. Often the worst among them are those who have never even been.

When people do actually visit, they usually leave with a very different impression.

Most are struck first by Dubai’s diversity: where else can you see 200 nationalities cohabiting? Immigration to the UAE took off in the 1960s, with many arriving from India (Mumbai is just over three hours away by plane).

Since then, a generation of Indian expats has been born in the UAE. For them, Dubai is truly home. Tell them that the city is devoid of culture, and their reaction will fall between bemused and offended. My 30-something friend Pallavi grew up a part of Dubai’s Indian community. She lives with her parents who hail from Delhi and Rajasthan. She embraces her heritage and knows exactly where to find the most authentic chaat in the darkest corners of “Old Dubai” (Mini Punjab, 25C Street, Meena Bazaar, if you’re interested).

She’s also very “Dubai” – a tech whizz, a bon vivant and a lover of books. We met at a book club. Yes, a book club. Not everyone comes to the emirate to pose with a flashy supercar or a reality TV star.

Cultural pursuits are on the rise. The contemporary art scene is booming in the back streets of Al Quoz. In Alserkal Avenue and Al Khayat Avenue you’ll find astounding works by world-renowned artists, free to view in industrial warehouses converted into galleries. Currently on display at dynamic little Efie Gallery, founded by Londonborn Ghanaian brothers Kobi and Kwame Mintah, is an exhibition of the works of El Anatsui.

A pioneer and veteran of African art, El Anatsui creates vast blanket-like sculptures made from discarded liqueur-bottle tops flattened and stitched together with steel wire. His creations draw connections between waste and consumption, his home continent and colonialism. In the UK, you’ll find his work not in the backstreets of an industrial estate, but in the British Museum.

Dubai’s culinary scene is also taking a star turn. June will see the launch of the first-ever Michelin Guide Dubai, hot on the heels of the MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. The Middle East and Northern Africa ranking was The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ inaugural foray into the region, held in February.

Dubai scored 16 entries on the list, including the number-one slot, scooped by eclectic Japanese restaurant 3Fils.

Tucked away at Jumeirah Fishing Harbour, the atmospheric 100-seater hideaway serves juicy wagyu truffle burgers, lobster capellini pasta and asparagus tempura topped with oozing golden fried egg. The cardamom tea-flavoured karak ice cream with butterscotch sauce raises the bar in indulgence. Foodies are amply rewarded in Dubai, and Dubai was ranked the second safest place in the world by Global Finance Magazine in 2021, with personal security among the qualifying factors.

Sadly, for the LGBT+ community, same-sex relations remain against the law.

The weather is stiflingly hot from May to September, peaking at around 40C in August. Beyond those blistering months, you’re free to explore miles of deep sandy beach, fabulous fine dining and world-class art exhibitions shaped by the tapestry of nationalities that make Dubai more culturally rich than it is “bling”.