The world’s 20 greatest hotel bars

With London Cocktail Week in full swing, the time to raise a toast is now, says Tom Sandham

In the early 20th century, the hotel bar was the centre of the sipping universe. As transatlantic travel scattered discerning drinkers around the globe, the American bar concept, extolled for grand interiors and never-ending buzz, promised a blend of high-quality cocktails and hijinks to the heroes who frequented them.

But as the 21st century approached, the hotel bar became a jaded concept, under-loved and ubiquitous in its hotel-bar beige, with a clientele to match. A few hotel bars consistently welcomed a more distinguished throng, but too many became relics. Chances are if you landed in London, Lisbon or Lima and wanted a drink, you quickly dumped the luggage and hightailed it out of your hotel.

During the past decade, however, the hotel bar has enjoyed a righteous renaissance. A pioneering generation of bar professionals have identified a huge open goal in this space and their revolutionary approach to drinks menus is helping put the hip back into hotel bars.

Among the recent crop of innovators is Ryan Chetiyawardana, AKA “Mr Lyan”, whose work in London, Washington and Amsterdam has attracted global critical acclaim. He established himself with the independent Shoreditch bar White Lyan in 2013, before creating the hotel bar at Sea Containers on the South Bank. Under the moniker Dandelyan, his progressive menu concept saw it voted the World’s Best Bar in 2018, and since he’s reworked and renamed the bar Lyaness it is busier than ever with hotel guests, famous faces and local liquor lovers.

“Operators once saw the hotel bar as an afterthought,” says Ryan. “The restaurant was where to put focus (and potentially a big-name chef), and the bar was just a space where people would grab a drink. So many hotel bars didn’t invest in staff. But as diners have sought more complete experiences, so the focus on bar spaces grew too.”

London is leading this revolution, with Ago Perrone placing the Connaught Bar on the global map, while the constantly evolving American Bar at the Savoy has been accompanied by a beautiful sibling in the Beaufort. The Americans are taking note, with London’s NoMad, Standard and Edition presenting impressive bars to try to compete.

But London is by no means unique and, as you travel further afield, you’ll discover the rising stars of bar culture are often found in hotels. This is particularly true in Asia and Latin America, where the likes of the Rosewoods and Four Seasons are upping the game.

Far from the unhappy period in its past, the hotel bar is once again becoming a destination in its own right. Whether it’s a renovation at an old favourite, or a new concept such as the Experimental Group’s takeover of Cowley Manor in the Cotswolds, operators now understand the bar must be taken seriously if a hotel is to earn respect. With London Cocktail Week currently in full swing, here are 20 of the best hotel bars around the world, from cities to beaches and classics to newcomers.

Tom Sandham is one half of the Thinking Drinkers, who are currently touring their acclaimed theatrical tasting shows (thinkingdrinkers.com)