HOW DOES WARSAW FARE IN THE EUROPEAN CITY-BREAKS BATTLE?

CULTURE

Warsaw is full of museums and galleries, covering many facets of Polish history and culture. There’s the Jewish Museum, the National Museum, the Vodka Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum (his heart is also kept in the Church of the Holy Cross). Be sure to visit the Neon Museum, too – a little out of the way, but worth the trek.

FOOD

Obviously you need to try the traditional stuff, like the potato dumplings at Pyzy Flaki Gorące (though keep your diary clear for the next few hours to get over the food coma). There are lots of restaurants serving modern spins on the classics: the cabbage schnitzel at U Wieniawy was a pleasant surprise. Food halls are also popular: check out the one at the former power plant (Elektrownia). I also had a terrific meal at Dyletanci, which has more than a touch of east London about it – elegant dishes and natural wine. Always order sorrel soup if you can.

NIGHTLIFE

Bars and clubs abound. Nowy Swiat is the main drag; Srodmiescie Polnocne is lively (and a bit cooler) too. You’re unlikely to find a better martini than the one I had in the Column Bar at the Hotel Bristol. There’s a more alternative scene in the Praga district. Some of The Pianist was filmed in this formers workers’ district, but is fairly rundown today. Inevitably, though, gentrification is afoot. I spotted at least two artisan bakeries.

GREEN SPACE

I came to Warsaw expecting urban grit, but about a quarter of the city is green. The parks are beautiful, and the Royal Baths Park is the crowning glory. Every Sunday during the warmer months there’s an al fresco Chopin recital.

COST

Despite some price rises, Warsaw remains a cheap place to fly to, stay and get around (the public transport is excellent). Double rooms in a three-star hotel cost around £50 a night. Expect to pay £35 for a three-course meal (with wine) in a decent restaurant. A pint of beer will set you back the princely sum of £2.50.