The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Why a cruise is the ultimate holiday for Christmas lovers
Bright lights, music and the intoxicating smell of crêpes – nothing makes the festive season feel more imminent than taking in the markets on a journey along Europe’s rivers, says Sara Macefield
There’s no mistaking the twinkling lights and aromatic scent of glühwein that signals the start of Christmas market season. Nothing beats the enchanting feel of rekindled childhood memories that these markets evoke; from the enticing assortment of goodies on sale (wooden decorations, brightly coloured baubles and beautiful hand-crafted whirligigs) to the sensory feast on offer (spiced gingerbread, sizzling bratwurst and gooey crêpes) and medley of brass bands playing traditional favourites or the harmonious vocals of a carolling choir drifting on the air.
Yet the real highlight is the magical backdrop of most; cobbled squares surrounded by medieval half-timbered houses and dreamy church spires, where a light dusting of snow makes you feel as though you’ve stepped into a picture-perfect Christmas card.
When it comes to turning up festive flavours for this intoxicating time of year, no one does it quite like the continentals, and particularly the Germans, with their flair for transforming towns and cities into enchanting winter wonderlands that brighten up the dullest of days. It could be argued they’ve had plenty of practice. This custom dates from the Middle Ages when the first such gathering – Striezelmarkt – took place in Dresden in 1434. Today, it is one of the country’s largest Christmas markets and is packed full of traditional touches.
While Germany has many of the most celebrated events in the likes of Nuremberg, Berlin and Cologne, over the years this advent tradition has spread across its borders, spilling into France, Austria and beyond. The magic starts from around mid-November as markets spring up in unison across Europe, with picturesque rows of Alpine-style wooden huts draped in fairy lights heaving with yuletide trinkets.
Holidays to experience these festivities are nothing new, but an increasing number of Christmas-lovers are waking up to the boon of joining one of the many river cruises so they can tick off several markets in one trip, with sailings sometimes selling out months in advance.
Many markets sit on the banks – or are within easy reach – of the Danube and the Rhine (plus its tributaries) which are the mainstays of such seasonal voyages; although the Elbe and the Seine also unlock atmospheric alternatives.
Over the past decade or so, more companies have cottoned on to this trend, adding themed voyages and ensuring their ships brim with winter bonhomie thanks to lavish decorations of Christmas trees and gingerbread houses, along with lashings of tinsel, wreaths and garlands that ensure the yuletide spirit flows.
Where to cruise
A key highlight of Rhine sailings between Amsterdam and Basel is Cologne, which has as many as eight Christmas markets. Each has a different theme, though the largest collection of stalls is in the square in front of the city’s Gothic cathedral which provides the most spectacular backdrop.
Offering a totally different and more intimate feel is the nearby Rhineland town of Rüdesheim, where stalls line the streets of the historic centre as part of its Christmas Market of Nations, which has an international flavour with more than 17 countries participating.
Meanwhile, the medieval backdrop of Freiburg, on the edge of the Black Forest, adds a wondrous feel to Christmas revelries that are concentrated in the city’s main square. Strasbourg is known as France’s Capital of Christmas, with the country’s oldest advent market, dating from 1570, containing an impressive line-up of around 300 stalls.
On the banks of the Moselle you’ll find Germany’s oldest city, Trier, which was founded by the Romans. It features a small market in the main square under the shadow of the cathedral.
Cruises along the Main, another tributary of the Rhine, reveal the markets of Würzburg, noted for locally produced artisanal goods, and Nuremberg, whose Christkindlesmarkt is one of Germany’s most famous and largest gatherings.
Elbe voyages unwrap the attractions of Dresden and many sailings also include an extension to Prague, where guests stay overnight to savour this most magical of Christmas experiences.
In addition to markets in German cities, such as Passau and Regensburg, Danube cruises feature festivities from neighbouring countries, notably Austria, with Vienna’s impressive roll-call of markets scattered across the city; Slovakia’s capital Bratislava; and Hungary’s capital Budapest, where market stalls enjoy an exalted status among the atmospheric surroundings of St Stephen’s Basilica.
If all this prompts you to get the celebratory ball rolling, here’s a sprinkling of sailings for this Christmas that still have availability.