The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Why National Landscapes are our natural heroes
As Britain’s Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty undergo a rebrand, Sarah Baxter delves into their history and relevance
‘ Well, our meetings are much shorter now,” says John Watkins, chief executive of the National Landscapes Association. Until last week he was the CEO of the less-succinct National Association for Areas of Outstanding National Beauty (AONB), and he is a happy man.
AONB was always something of a verbal stumble, he admits (“great descriptor, not easy to use”). But National Landscapes Association is more than a new name: “It’s a reinvigoration, a galvanising,” says Watkins.
The rebrand also signifies a wider change in approach in the face of the climate emergency and nature, health and wellbeing crises.
“There’s an urgency now, and a job of work to be done,” he adds. “Collectively, National Landscapes can make a difference.”
AONB, set up to “conserve and enhance natural beauty”, was created initially under the 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act. It was a response to public desire for greater access to land for recreation after the Second World War.
The first designated AONB was the Gower in 1956, followed by the Quantock Hills; the last was the Tamar Valley, in 1995. There are now 46 National Landscapes within England, Wales and Northern Ireland, covering 10 per cent of the UK countryside (Scotland’s equivalent organisation is National Scenic Areas, which lists 40 sites).
Between them they encompass diverse, hugely significant and, of course, outstandingly beautiful swathes of moorland, heath, coast, forest and farmland, plus 11,800 miles (19,000km) of footpaths and bridleways and almost 25 per cent of the UK’s scheduled monuments. They stretch from the Isles of Scilly and Land’s End to Hadrian’s Wall and the Northumberland Coast, from the Sandringham Estate to Giant’s Causeway. You’ve almost certainly been to one: 66 per cent of England’s population live within 30 minutes of one; a million people live within them. If you’ve lounged on a Cornish beach, visited Tintern Abbey, stood on Dover’s White Cliffs or climbed Pendle Hill, you’ve been.
They are no poor relation, either. The landscape quality of AONB is identified in law as equal to that of National Parks, with the same level of protections. However, National Parks are planning authorities, so are able to make decisions on planning applications, while National Landscape teams act as consultees.
And yet, despite this importance, they remain somewhat under-recognised. A 2022 survey by Ipsos found awareness of the AONB name was relatively low in the general public, and even lower in younger age groups. The name change, and the slick accompanying visual rebranding, aims to put National Landscapes on a par with National Parks and National Trails in the national consciousness – in the hope that they will, once and for all, get the love and recognition they deserve.
FIVE NATIONAL LANDSCAPES TO EXPLORE
North Pennines, Northumberland, Cumbria & County Durham
Why? For scale and super skies Straddling an expanse of heather moors, hay meadows, broad valleys, woodlands, peatlands and tight-knit communities, the North Pennines is one of the biggest National Landscapes.
You’ll also find black grouse, red squirrels, hike and bike paths, rock-climbing routes and supremely dark skies – the Landscape has 16 designated sites where the Milky Way can be seen with the naked eye.
Stay here Romaldkirk’s Rose & Crown is a fine foodie inn, amid the Pennine moors; B&B doubles from £140 (roseand-crown.co.uk).
Tamar Valley,
Devon & Cornwall
Why? To roam a revitalised river
The youngest of the National Landscapes, the Tamar Valley is an unspoilt slice of the South West, shaped by the Tamar, Tavy and Lynher rivers and the human activity around them. Straddling county borders, it’s a gateway to Dartmoor, Plymouth Sound National Marine Park and the Cornish & West Devon Mining Unesco World Heritage Site.
This year the Tamara Landscape Partnership Scheme, working with National Landscape, launched the new 87-mile Tamara Coast to Coast Way, a north-south trail largely tracing the Tamar. Next year sees the trial relaunch of the historic Calstock ferry, which will reconnect Devon and Cornwall by electric boat.
Stay here Hotel Endsleigh is a Regency pile in Humphry Repton gardens, alongside the Tamar; B&B doubles from £280 (thepolizzicollection.com/ hotel-endsleigh).
Dedham Vale, Suffolk & Essex Why? It’s pretty as a picture
The most English landscape of all? It was within this valley that Constable painted his ‘Hay Wain’ – the scene remains recognisable, at Willie Lott’s Cottage. Indeed, the National Landscape encompasses a picturesque sweep of the River Stour, home to a rich array of wildlife (including almost 1,000 species of moth).
Big improvements on the Stour catchment, co-ordinated by the National Landscape team, have further enriched the habitat, and reduced flooding risk. Explore the area’s magnificent medieval wool towns, and enjoy the fruits of this rich farmland at field-to-fork restaurants and along the three Stour Valley Food Trails.
Stay here Dedham’s Sun Inn is a proper old pub with thoughtfully designed rooms; B&B doubles from £175 (thesuninndedham.com).
Surrey Hills, Surrey
Why? For an easy escape
This beautiful breathing space on the edge of London extends across a quarter of Surrey, encompassing North Downs chalk slopes, tree-flanked Greensand Hills and a scatter of winsome villages and market towns. Literal highs include Box Hill, ridge-top St Martha’s Church and Leith Hill Tower (built in 1765 as “a place for people to enjoy the glory of the English countryside”).
There’s a strong outdoor arts scene here too, with 12 permanent works secreted about the woods, heath and hills; download walks and audio trails for self-guided exploring, and look out for arty events.
Stay here Hurtwood Hotel is a boutique base in the pretty village of Peaslake, surrounded by super walking country; B&B doubles from £95 (hurtwoodhotel.co.uk).
Cannock Chase, Staffordshire
Why? It’s a tiny but mighty spot England’s smallest mainland National Landscape is a special patch of green space on Birmingham’s doorstep. Created for William the Conqueror as a hunting forest, it’s now a bijou but brilliantly varied array of ancient oaks, sustainable plantations, heath, river valleys and canals. It’s also a stronghold for wildlife including fallow deer, four of Britain’s six reptiles, rare nightjar and woodlark, and unique plants like the Cannock Chase berry.
The bike and hike offering is especially good, with something to suit all levels, from the family-friendly Gruffalo trail and new mindfulness walk to purpose-built mountain-bike tracks and long-distance routes.
Stay here The Duncombe Arms, Ellastone, is a wonderfully refurbed old pub-with-rooms, 30 minutes from Cannock Chase; B&B doubles from £140 (duncombearms.co.uk).