The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Langdale Chase The Lady of the Lake
Sherelle Jacobs is enchanted by a Gothic bolthole that could bring a boost to much maligned Windermere
Windermere has become the stuff of controversy. Once upon a time “the glimmering lake” gushed about by Wordsworth was the jewel in the crown of northern tourism.
In the last couple of years, however, it has been caught up in a national pollution scandal. Last year there was outcry after a blue algae bloom spread across its once-crystal-clear waters. Research suggests that suspected illegal dumping of raw sewage took place there on up to 70 days in 2022. And although I found it not too busy on a wet December weekend, overtourism in summer has made Windermere town notorious for gridlocked roads and overflowing car parks.
Thankfully, the algae seemed to have cleared from the lake – at least in the corners I explored. True, charity shops and tattoo parlours have crept into Windermere’s high street, filling the gaps left by a shrinking cluster of galleries and confectionery shops. That said, Ambleside, with its Victorian slate buildings, neighbourhood bookstores and farm shops selling blood-orange gin liqueur, was a splendid place to linger, even in the rain.
It is in this ambivalent setting that hoteliers are battling to protect the location’s image as a romantic luxury getaway. Windermere has, over time, carved out a reputation for high-end hotels. It is home to influencer favourite Gilpin, with its spa rooms featuring hot tubs, as well as the ultra-smart Samling, a favourite with foodies.
This month, a boost has arrived in the form of the grand reopening of Langdale Chase after a multi million-pound refurbishment. Windermere has been in sore need of good press for some time, and this ostentatious, bluestone 19th-century pile – built by the widow of a Manchester businessman to live in alone with 16 servants – does not disappoint.
The most historic rooms are gloriously Gothic without being oppressive; white peonies and floral wallpaper complementing the mullioned windows and fireplaces adorned with coats of arms. Sipping champagne on arrival in the main hall, with its painstakingly restored carved oak staircase and gallery soarsuite ing to 21ft, set the bar high. It barely wobbled thereafter.
My first dinner, by a crackling log fire in the lounge, was simple and immaculate – Lindisfarne oysters, followed by a cracking cheese souffle and a perfectly cooked sirloin steak. On the second night, the main dining room, with a variety of Old and New World wines paired by the hopelessly sophisticated but infectiously affable French sommelier was an event. I will be dreaming of my parcel of guinea fowl with mushroom and celeriac for years to come. In the winter it is worth booking a lunch or afternoon tea here in order to appreciate the lakeside views from the hotel’s wall of floor-to-ceiling windows.
The only downfall on the culinary front was one bad espresso, served at breakfast to my companion who, as well as being northern, is (unluckily for the waiter) also half Italian. However, he did approve of the barman’s negronis.
Where Langdale Chase undoubtedly throws down the gauntlet to its competition is in its rooms, many of which have jaw-dropping lakeside vistas. Sinking into an armchair and gazing out to the arresting – and menacing – waters shifting with the day from arctic blue in the mornings to nightmare black at dusk, one is liable to forget that Windermere has suffered as a suspected sewage dumping ground of late. Though not all rooms have water views, even the entry-level rooms have bathtubs, sitting areas and elegant country-style furnishings, all dogtooth-print armchairs and check wool throws.
The suites are stupendous. I stayed in the octagonal Pullwood Bay suite, with a stained-glass skylight. The boathouse is the most special, sitting right above Windermere, with its own terrace and direct access to the beach.
The future of Windermere may be uncertain, but Langdale Chase is pressing on with plans to put itself at the centre of the activity offerings. It is planning to introduce sailing experiences from its private jetty in March; for now, guests can partake in wild swimming, though it was too choppy to take advantage during my stay. And in all honesty, had the weather conditions been better, we would have done it.
Windermere may have a fight on its hands to secure a sustainable future. But for now, pockets of it remain a sublimely beautiful escape. And for a Londoner like me, a dose of northern hospitality, whether it is in the pampering surrounds of Langdale Chase or the humble confines of a pier cornershop, is ever the source of enjoyment.
Doubles from £290, including breakfast